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A Conversation on Arabie

A Package from Ines

A Package from Lavanya

A More Affordable Olfactionary

A Week of Wearing What I Like

Amouage Dia (pour femme)

Amouage Dia (pour homme)

Amouage Epic Woman

Amouage Gold

Amouage Interlude Man

Amouage Jubilation 25 

Amouage Lyric Woman

Amouage Memoir Woman

Amouage Opus I

Amouage Opus III

Amouage Opus IV

Amouage Opus V

Amouage Opus VI

Amouage Tribute

Amouage Ubar

Annick Goutal Ambre Fetiche

Annick Goutal Encens Flamboyant

Annick Goutal Heure Exquise

Annick Goutal Petite Cherie

Annick Goutal Sables

April Aromatics Calling All Angels

April Aromatics Bohemian Spice

April Aromatics Jasmina 

April Aromatics Nectar of Love

April Aromatics Rose L'Orange

Aroma M Geisha Green

Aroma M Geisha Rouge

Arquiste Anima Dulcis

Arquiste Boutonniere no. 7

At the Moment (Chanel 22 & Marshall Crenshaw)

At the Moment (Contemplating Change & Habit Rouge)

At the Moment (Marron Chic & Paris)

At the Moment (More Midsummer Delights/Epic/Geisha Noire)

At the Moment (Saki & Lubin Idole edt)

At the Moment (Secret de Suzanne /D'Orsay L'Intrigante)

At the Moment (Spring Pretties/Un Air de Samsara)

At the Moment (Summery Things...Love Coconut)

At the Moment (Vera Wang & Fireman's Fair novel)

Ava Luxe Café Noir

Beatnik Emptiness Incense

Best of 2009

Bond No. 9 Andy Warhol Silver Factory

Bond No. 9 Brooklyn

Bond No. 9 Little Italy

Bond No. 9 New Haarlem

Bottega Veneta eau de parfum

Breath of God

Byredo Green

By Kilian Amber Oud

Calyx by Prescriptives

Canturi by Stefano Canturi

Capote, Truman & Evening in Paris

Carner Barcelona D600

Caron Aimez-Moi

Caron French Cancan

Caron Parfum Sacre

Caron Tabac Blond

Caron Tubereuse

Caron Yatagan

Cartier II L'Heure Convoitee

Cartier IV L'Heure Fougueuse

Chanel 31 Rue Cambon

Chanel Bel Respiro

Chanel Chance

Chanel Coco

Chanel Coromandel

Chanel Cuir de Russie

Chanel Egoiste

Chanel No. 5 (vintage)

Chanel No. 22

Chantecaille Petales

Chantilly Dusting Powder

Clive Christian C for Women

Comme des Garcons Daphne

Comme des Garcons LUXE Champaca

Comme des Garcons Series 7 Sweet Nomad Tea

Costes by Costes

Coty Ambre Antique

Coty Chypre

Coty Paris

Creature by Kerosene

Creed Acqua Fiorentina

Creed Fleurs de Bulgarie

Creed Virgin Island Water

DSH Perfumes Bancha Extreme

DSH Perfumes Quinacridone Violet 

DSH Perfumes Vert pour Madame

Deneuve

Devilscent Project

Dior Diorissimo (vintage)

Donna Karan Black Cashmere

EnVoyage Vents Ardents

EnVoyage Zelda

Estee Lauder Private Collection

Estee Lauder Private Collection Jasmine White Moss

Etat Libre d'Orange Rien, Rossy de Palma & Noel au Balcon

Faberge Woodhue Cologne

Favorite Fall Fragrances

Fendi Uomo

Fragrances for Sweden

Frapin 1697 Absolu Parfum

Frederic Malle Angeliques Sous La Pluie

Frederic Malle Bigarade Concentrée

Frederic Malle Carnal Flower

Frederic Malle Geranium Pour Monsieur

Frederic Malle Iris Poudre

Frederic Malle Le Parfum de Therese

Frederic Malle Lipstick Rose

Frederic Malle Noir Epices

Frederic Malle Portrait of a Lady

Frederic Malle Une Fleur de Cassie

Frederic Malle Une Rose

Geoffrey Beene Grey Flannel

Ghosts of Perfumes Past, Present & Future

Gone Fishin'

Gucci Eau de Parfum

Gucci L'Arte di Gucci

Gucci Pour Homme

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Lys Soleia

Guerlain Aroma Allegoria Exaltant

Guerlain Attrape Coeur

Guerlain Chamade

Guerlain Jicky

Guerlain Mayotte

Guerlain Parure

Guerlain Samsara Parfum

Guerlain Un Air de Samsara

Guerlain Vega

Guerlain Vetiver (vintage)

Guy Laroche J'ai Ose (vintage)

Happy Solstice

Hermes 24, Faubourg

Hermes Caleche (vintage)

Hermes Eau des Merveilles

Hermes Hiris

Hermes Iris Ukiyoe

Hermes L'Ambre des Merveilles

Histoires de Parfums 1740

Histoires de Parfums 1828

Histoires de Parfums Blanc Violette

Histoires de Parfums Vert Pivoine

Hometown Portrait, State College, PA

Honore des Pres Vamp a NY

House of Matriarch Carmine

How I Store Decants

Il Profumo Cannabis

In Memory (w/mention of Lanvin Arpege)

Jacomo #02

Jacomo #09 (Link to my review in Sniffapalooza Magazine)

Jean Desprez Bal a Versailles

Jean Patou Joy

Jean Patou 1000

Jo Malone Saffron Cologne Intense

Jo Malone Sweet Milk Cologne 

Juliet by Juliet Stewart

Kai Eau de Parfum

Kenzo Jungle l’Elephant

Kenzo Summer

Lancome Magie Noire (vintage) 

Lanvin Via Lanvin (vintage) 

L'Artisan Parfumeur Nuit de Tubereuse

L'Artisan Parfumeur Orchidee Blanche 

L’Artisan Parfumeur Passage d’Enfer

L'Artisan Parfumeur Seville a l'Aube

L’Artisan Parfumeur Tea for Two

La Via del Profumo Balsamo Della Mecca

La Via del Profumo Hindu Kush

La Via del Profumo Milano Caffe

La Via del Profumo Oud Caravan Project

La Via del Profumo Sharif

La Via del Profumo Tawaf

Le Labo Gaiac 10

Le Labo Iris 39

Le Labo Patchouli 24

Le Labo Poivre 23

Little Lists

Lorenzo Villoresi Yerbamate

M. Micallef Vanille Orient

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Absolue Pour le Soir

Maison Martin Margiela (untitled) eau de parfum

Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Eau des Iles

Message In A Bottle 

Michael Storer Winter Star

Miller Harris L'Air de Rien

Miscellany

Missoni (original) by Missoni

Molinard Habanita

Mona Di Orio Nuit Noire

Mona Di Orio Oud

Mona Di Orio Vanille

Montale Black Aoud

Montale Boise Vanille

Montale Intense Tiare

Montale Patchouli Leaves

Montale Red Aoud

More Roses (rose cookie recipe)

My Heart Has Skipped a Beat (summer smells)

My Perfumes Have Theme Songs

Nasomatto China White

Neila Vermeire Creations Bombay Bling

Nina Ricci L'Air du Temps

Nez a Nez Ambre a Sade

Northern Exposure "A Dash of Chanel No. 5"

Odin 04 Petrana (Link to my review in Sniffapalooza Magazine)

Olivier Durbano Black Tourmaline

Omar Sharif Pour Femme

Oriscent Pure Oud Oils

Ormonde Jayne Frangipani

Ormonde Jayne Ormonde Woman

Oscar de la Renta Oscar for Men

O Tannenbaum Joint Blog Project

Parfum d'Empire Azemour

Parfum d'Empire Cuir Ottoman

Parfum d'Empire Equistrius

Parfum d'Empire 3 Fleurs

Parfumerie Generale Bois de Copaiba

Parfumerie Generale Indochine

Parfumerie Generale Un Crime Exotique

Parfums de Nicolai Sacrebleu

Parfums DelRae Amoureuse

Parfums Karl Lagerfeld Sun Moon Stars

Parfums MDCI Chypre Palatin

Parfums Retro Grand Cuir

Paris, je t'aime

Pascal Morabito Or Black 

Perfume Quotes - The English Patient

Prada Infusion d'Iris Absolue

Pretty Perfume Bottles 

Prince Matchabelli Aviance Cologne (vintage) 

Profumum Roma Acqua Viva

Profumum Roma D'Ambrosia

Puredistance I

Puredistance Antonia

Puredistance BLACK

Puredistance M

Puredistance Opardu

Ramon Monegal Cherry Musk

Recipe for Socca

Regina Harris Amber Vanilla Perfume Oil

Regina Harris Frankincense-Myrrh-Rose Maroc Perfume Oil

Robert Piguet Fracas

Robert Piguet Visa

Rochas Mystere 

Rome Vacation Photos

San Francisco Holiday

Sarah Horowitz Parfums' Joy Comes From Within & Beauty Comes From Within

Scented Reading

Scents of the Mediterranean

Scentuous Reading: One Hundred Years of Solitude

Serge Lutens Arabie

Serge Lutens Borneo 1834

Serge Lutens Boxeuses

Serge Lutens Chêne

Serge Lutens Chergui

Serge Lutens Fille en Aiguilles

Serge Lutens Five O’Clock Au Gingembre

Serge Lutens Fumerie Turque

Serge Lutens Miel de Bois

Serge Lutens Muscs Koublai Khan

Serge Lutens Tubereuse Criminelle

Serge Lutens Un Lys

Serge Lutens Vetiver Oriental

Slumberhouse Rume

Snow Days

Sonoma Scent Studio Incense Pure

Sonoma Scent Studio Jour Ensoleille

Sonoma Scent Studio Voile de Violette

Sonoma Scent Studio Winter Woods (brief mention)

SoOud Ouris Parfum Nectar

S-Perfume 100% Love {More}

Stone Harbor, NJ Vacaton pix (non-perfume related)

Strange Invisible Perfumes Lyric Rain

Sweden Is For Lovers

T is for Taxes

Tauer Perfumes: Incense Extrême, Incense Rosé, Lonestar Memories, & Reverie au Jardin

Tauer Perfumes Vetiver Dance

The Amazing Adventures of Kavalier & Clay

The Diary of a Nose, Book Review

The Different Company Jasmin de Nuit

The Intimacy of Scent

Thoughts of a Perfume Collector

Tightly

Tokyo Milk Ex Libris

Unlocking an Unknown: Webber Parfum 6T

Velvet & Sweet Pea's Purrfumery Bed of Roses

Venimus Vidimus Vicimus, or How 3 Perfume Bloggers and a Husband Took Rome

Vero Profumo Kiki, Onda, and Rubj

Vero Profumo Mito

Viktoria Minya Hedonist

Viktor & Rolfe Flowerbomb

What I’m Lovin’ Now

Xerjoff Mamluk

YOSH Perfumes Ginger Ciao

Yves Saint Laurent Nu


A SENSE OF PLACE AND PROVENANCE: TAUER PERFUMES


Provenance: where something originated or was nurtured in its early existence.  From the French provenir, to come forth, originate.


This week I’ve been testing four different fragrances from Tauer Perfumes: Lonestar Memories, inspired by the wide-open land of Texas and its cowboys; Rêverie au jardin, borne of Andy Tauer’s vision of “green lands and twinkling stars”; Incense Extrême, which Andy describes on his website as “a minimalist, cubist translation of incense” that takes its inspiration from the semi desert where Boswellia trees (one of the species of trees that produce frankincense) thrive; and Incense Rosé, a scent that marries Boswellia serrata frankincense with rose, citrus, and balsamic resins.


I am rather intrigued by these scents for a number of reasons—first, and foremost, because yes! they do transport me to the places they were intended to evoke.  I smell the Texas of my romantic, cowgirl dreams; I smell the memory of a garden I have visited in my fantasies, next to a chateau in the Lorraine region of France; and I smell the desert—the high desert of Arizona that I crave, always, and which I’ve had the pleasure to explore on three vacations—as well as the ancient silk-road desert I’ve only vicariously explored through books and television.  But I sense something else—another splendid place—in these fragrances, too.  While all four of them stand alone as unique works of olfactory art, there is within their unique characters a common thread—a signature that binds them. I smell Switzerland.  I smell the Swiss Alps, to be more exact.  I smell the town of Engelberg that I visited so many years ago, and which I’ve never forgotten, and the mountain (a glacier, actually), Titlis, which I hiked to the highest point one could safely reach on foot, each day exploring a different part of it, trekking through high altitude cow pastures where Brown Swiss cattle grazed, oblivious to the hikers in their midst, and the glistening lakes that indicated a plateau had been reached at various levels of the ascent.


Titlis soars to a height of 10,623 ft., the peak of it accessible via a revolving cable car, but at almost any point of the journey to the top, what one notices is the rarefied air—and the memory of that rarefied air is what I sense in all four of the Tauer scents that I tried.  On a clear July day, the air at the top of this Swiss alp is something that engages all of your senses: it is dry, clear, and crisp in feeling, with a slightly mineral taste; it is quiet and stilling to the ear; and it is the clearest lens through which the eye has ever looked upon a landscape.  When I am wearing Andy Tauer’s scents, I am reminded of all of these qualities—and though I know that he lives in Zurich, away from the Alps, I can’t help thinking that he is intimate with these majestic mountains, because his scents have all of those qualities.  They are like seeing into other worlds from a high perch—a perch somewhere near the heavens—with a view so lucid, so unfettered by any kind of pollution, that he is able to present that world to us in the purest distillation imaginable.


If you, like me, are a lover of mountains, of great wide-open spaces, of remote places, then you will undoubtedly fall in love with the perfumes of Andy Tauer.  I am taking all kinds of liberties I shouldn’t be taking when I claim this (for I have never had any personal communication with Andy), but I believe, or would like to believe, that he creates fragrances for people who love the rugged, rural places that are best explored by foot—or perhaps by horse or camel—but not by anything that would cut one off from the open air, not by car or bus.


Lonestar Memories
is the scent of saddle leather and sage grass, a lazy campfire that’s been burning a while, just a little smoky—not too much.  Call me crazy, but I even smell the scent of corn tortillas cooking on that fire.  And then, hours later, comes a drydown that you'd never expect from this warm, dry, leathery scent: it is an equisite blossoming of sunlit soft florals, as if the cowboy and his horse are now on the open trail, passing through an area of the Texas plains where the wildflowers are in bloom.  This scent is my favorite of the four that I’ve tried. (Notes: geranium, carrot seed, clary sage, birch tar, cistus, jasmine, cedar, myrrh, tonka, vetiver, sandalwood.)


Rêverie au jardin
is the softest, most feminine fragrance of the four.  I am not terribly fond of lavender in most fragrances; I can tolerate it in Jicky, but most of the time I’m not a fan of its medicinal, aromatherapy scent.  But here!  Oh my, this is a very different lavender that Andy employs in his fragrance (on his website he refers to it as “high-altitude mountain lavender from France.”)  It is only slightly pungent and it plays nice, very nice, with the other flowers and greenery in this garden.  A soft, tranquil floral.  Absolutely lovely. (Notes: lavender, galbanum, fir, bergamot, rose, frankincense, ambrette, orris, wood accord, ambergris, sandalwood, cedar.)


Incense Extrême
is surprising because I expected, from the name, that this might be difficult to wear.  Quite the opposite: this is a sheer, dry frankincense that wears closely to the skin.  In fact, on me it feels like it becomes a part of my skin, as if I have been in the desert harvesting the tears of frankincense, and when I return home, the scent of frankincense still lingers on my hair, my body, my clothes.  But the undiluted sunlight has dried and softened it.  I may have to order a bottle of this—I can see myself wearing it often. (Notes: coriander, petitgrain, frankincense, orris, cedar, ambergris.)


Incense Rosé
was another surprise too, because I expected the marriage of frankincense with rose, clementine, and balsamic resins would result in a soft, feminine scent.  This, to me, is actually the strongest scent of the four—a scent that on my skin has an evergreen sharpness I find less easy to wear than the more arid Incense Extrême.  This is the more humid of the four fragrances I tried (which is to say, it is still a dry scent, but not quite as dry as the rest), and perhaps that’s why its pine-y resinous quality resonates a bit loudly on my skin.  Though not my favorite, I like it well enough that I wouldn't turn down a bottle if one came my way.  I think it’s a matter of taste and employing a light touch with the application.  I should note that I sampled this one from a spray vial and the others from dab vials—and it’s easier to make the mistake of over-applying when you’re spraying rather than dabbing. (Notes: clementine, bergamot, castor, Bulgarian rose, orris, cedar, frankincense, labdanum, myrhh, patchouli, ambergris.)


All in all, I find the Tauer fragrances much to my liking, and now it’s simply a matter of narrowing down which fragrance I’d like to purchase.  Yes, I will be making a purchase, no doubt about it.  But before I decide, I might pick up samples of two of his other scents, L’Air du desert marocain and Le Maroc pour elle, because I’ve never been to Morocco and I do like to travel.  And I have a feeling that the Maghreb desert as viewed (or more accurately, smelled) through Andy Tauer’s fragrant artworks is bound to be stunning.  I wonder if it is also a place he has visited by foot, knowing it sensually as only a foot traveler can know a place, and then filtered through his heavenly viewpoint, high atop Switzerland?


Tauer perfumes are available from LuckyScent.com, where samples can also be purchased.

Images: photo of bottle of Lonestar Memories from LuckyScent.com; photo of Titlis from Wikipedia.com; photo of "Tree Silhouette, Al Sharqiya Province, Sultanate of Oman" by Bruno Barbier is from AllPosters.com, and can be purchased there.


Posted by Suzanne Keller, 3/29/2008.


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