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Suzanne’s Perfume Journal
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A Conversation on Arabie

A Package from Ines

A Package from Lavanya

A More Affordable Olfactionary

A Week of Wearing What I Like

Amouage Dia (pour femme)

Amouage Dia (pour homme)

Amouage Epic Woman

Amouage Gold

Amouage Interlude Man

Amouage Jubilation 25 

Amouage Lyric Woman

Amouage Memoir Woman

Amouage Opus I

Amouage Opus III

Amouage Opus IV

Amouage Opus V

Amouage Opus VI

Amouage Tribute

Amouage Ubar

Annick Goutal Ambre Fetiche

Annick Goutal Encens Flamboyant

Annick Goutal Heure Exquise

Annick Goutal Petite Cherie

Annick Goutal Sables

April Aromatics Calling All Angels

April Aromatics Bohemian Spice

April Aromatics Jasmina 

April Aromatics Nectar of Love

April Aromatics Rose L'Orange

Aroma M Geisha Green

Aroma M Geisha Rouge

Arquiste Boutonniere no. 7

At the Moment (Chanel 22 & Marshall Crenshaw)

At the Moment (Contemplating Change & Habit Rouge)

At the Moment (Marron Chic & Paris)

At the Moment (More Midsummer Delights/Epic/Geisha Noire)

At the Moment (Saki & Lubin Idole edt)

At the Moment (Secret de Suzanne /D'Orsay L'Intrigante)

At the Moment (Spring Pretties/Un Air de Samsara)

At the Moment (Summery Things...Love Coconut)

At the Moment (Vera Wang & Fireman's Fair novel)

Ava Luxe Café Noir

Beatnik Emptiness Incense

Best of 2009

Bond No. 9 Andy Warhol Silver Factory

Bond No. 9 Brooklyn

Bond No. 9 Little Italy

Bond No. 9 New Haarlem

Bottega Veneta eau de parfum

Breath of God

Byredo Green

By Kilian Amber Oud

Calyx by Prescriptives

Canturi by Stefano Canturi

Capote, Truman & Evening in Paris

Carner Barcelona D600

Caron Aimez-Moi

Caron French Cancan

Caron Parfum Sacre

Caron Tabac Blond

Caron Tubereuse

Caron Yatagan

Cartier II L'Heure Convoitee

Cartier IV L'Heure Fougueuse

Chanel 31 Rue Cambon

Chanel Bel Respiro

Chanel Chance

Chanel Coco

Chanel Coromandel

Chanel Cuir de Russie

Chanel Egoiste

Chanel No. 5 (vintage)

Chanel No. 22

Chantecaille Petales

Chantilly Dusting Powder

Clive Christian C for Women

Comme des Garcons Daphne

Comme des Garcons LUXE Champaca

Comme des Garcons Series 7 Sweet Nomad Tea

Costes by Costes

Coty Ambre Antique

Coty Chypre

Coty Paris

Creature by Kerosene

Creed Acqua Fiorentina

Creed Fleurs de Bulgarie

Creed Virgin Island Water

DSH Perfumes Bancha Extreme

DSH Perfumes Quinacridone Violet 

DSH Perfumes Vert pour Madame

Deneuve

Devilscent Project

Dior Diorissimo (vintage)

Donna Karan Black Cashmere

EnVoyage Vents Ardents

EnVoyage Zelda

Estee Lauder Private Collection

Estee Lauder Private Collection Jasmine White Moss

Etat Libre d'Orange Rien, Rossy de Palma & Noel au Balcon

Faberge Woodhue Cologne

Favorite Fall Fragrances

Fendi Uomo

Fragrances for Sweden

Frapin 1697 Absolu Parfum

Frederic Malle Angeliques Sous La Pluie

Frederic Malle Bigarade Concentrée

Frederic Malle Carnal Flower

Frederic Malle Geranium Pour Monsieur

Frederic Malle Iris Poudre

Frederic Malle Le Parfum de Therese

Frederic Malle Lipstick Rose

Frederic Malle Noir Epices

Frederic Malle Portrait of a Lady

Frederic Malle Une Fleur de Cassie

Frederic Malle Une Rose

Geoffrey Beene Grey Flannel

Ghosts of Perfumes Past, Present & Future

Gone Fishin'

Gucci Eau de Parfum

Gucci L'Arte di Gucci

Gucci Pour Homme

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Lys Soleia

Guerlain Aroma Allegoria Exaltant

Guerlain Attrape Coeur

Guerlain Chamade

Guerlain Jicky

Guerlain Mayotte

Guerlain Parure

Guerlain Samsara Parfum

Guerlain Un Air de Samsara

Guerlain Vega

Guerlain Vetiver (vintage)

Guy Laroche J'ai Ose (vintage)

Happy Solstice

Hermes 24, Faubourg

Hermes Caleche (vintage)

Hermes Eau des Merveilles

Hermes Hiris

Hermes Iris Ukiyoe

Hermes L'Ambre des Merveilles

Histoires de Parfums 1740

Histoires de Parfums 1828

Histoires de Parfums Blanc Violette

Histoires de Parfums Vert Pivoine

Hometown Portrait, State College, PA

Honore des Pres Vamp a NY

House of Matriarch Carmine

How I Store Decants

Il Profumo Cannabis

In Memory (w/mention of Lanvin Arpege)

Jacomo #02

Jacomo #09 (Link to my review in Sniffapalooza Magazine)

Jean Desprez Bal a Versailles

Jean Patou Joy

Jean Patou 1000

Jo Malone Sweet Milk Cologne 

Juliet by Juliet Stewart

Kai Eau de Parfum

Kenzo Jungle l’Elephant

Kenzo Summer

Lancome Magie Noire (vintage) 

Lanvin Via Lanvin (vintage) 

L'Artisan Parfumeur Nuit de Tubereuse

L'Artisan Parfumeur Orchidee Blanche 

L’Artisan Parfumeur Passage d’Enfer

L'Artisan Parfumeur Seville a l'Aube

L’Artisan Parfumeur Tea for Two

La Via del Profumo Balsamo Della Mecca

La Via del Profumo Hindu Kush

La Via del Profumo Milano Caffe

La Via del Profumo Oud Caravan Project

La Via del Profumo Sharif

La Via del Profumo Tawaf

Le Labo Gaiac 10

Le Labo Patchouli 24

Le Labo Poivre 23

Little Lists

Lorenzo Villoresi Yerbamate

M. Micallef Vanille Orient

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Absolue Pour le Soir

Maison Martin Margiela (untitled) eau de parfum

Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Eau des Iles

Message In A Bottle 

Michael Storer Winter Star

Miller Harris L'Air de Rien

Miscellany

Missoni (original) by Missoni

Molinard Habanita

Mona Di Orio Nuit Noire

Mona Di Orio Oud

Mona Di Orio Vanille

Montale Black Aoud

Montale Boise Vanille

Montale Intense Tiare

Montale Patchouli Leaves

Montale Red Aoud

More Roses (rose cookie recipe)

My Heart Has Skipped a Beat (summer smells)

My Perfumes Have Theme Songs

Nasomatto China White

Neila Vermeire Creations Bombay Bling

Nina Ricci L'Air du Temps

Nez a Nez Ambre a Sade

Northern Exposure "A Dash of Chanel No. 5"

Odin 04 Petrana (Link to my review in Sniffapalooza Magazine)

Olivier Durbano Black Tourmaline

Omar Sharif Pour Femme

Oriscent Pure Oud Oils

Ormonde Jayne Frangipani

Ormonde Jayne Ormonde Woman

Oscar de la Renta Oscar for Men

O Tannenbaum Joint Blog Project

Parfum d'Empire Azemour

Parfum d'Empire Cuir Ottoman

Parfum d'Empire Equistrius

Parfum d'Empire 3 Fleurs

Parfumerie Generale Bois de Copaiba

Parfumerie Generale Indochine

Parfumerie Generale Un Crime Exotique

Parfums de Nicolai Sacrebleu

Parfums DelRae Amoureuse

Parfums Karl Lagerfeld Sun Moon Stars

Parfums MDCI Chypre Palatin

Paris, je t'aime

Pascal Morabito Or Black 

Perfume Quotes - The English Patient

Prada Infusion d'Iris Absolue

Pretty Perfume Bottles 

Prince Matchabelli Aviance Cologne (vintage) 

Profumum Roma Acqua Viva

Profumum Roma D'Ambrosia

Puredistance I

Puredistance Antonia

Puredistance BLACK

Puredistance M

Puredistance Opardu

Ramon Monegal Cherry Musk

Recipe for Socca

Regina Harris Amber Vanilla Perfume Oil

Regina Harris Frankincense-Myrrh-Rose Maroc Perfume Oil

Robert Piguet Fracas

Robert Piguet Visa

Rochas Mystere 

Rome Vacation Photos

Sarah Horowitz Parfums' Joy Comes From Within & Beauty Comes From Within

Scented Reading

Scents of the Mediterranean

Scentuous Reading: One Hundred Years of Solitude

Serge Lutens Arabie

Serge Lutens Borneo 1834

Serge Lutens Boxeuses

Serge Lutens Chêne

Serge Lutens Chergui

Serge Lutens Fille en Aiguilles

Serge Lutens Five O’Clock Au Gingembre

Serge Lutens Fumerie Turque

Serge Lutens Miel de Bois

Serge Lutens Muscs Koublai Khan

Serge Lutens Tubereuse Criminelle

Serge Lutens Un Lys

Serge Lutens Vetiver Oriental

Slumberhouse Rume

Snow Days

Sonoma Scent Studio Incense Pure

Sonoma Scent Studio Jour Ensoleille

Sonoma Scent Studio Voile de Violette

Sonoma Scent Studio Winter Woods (brief mention)

SoOud Ouris Parfum Nectar

S-Perfume 100% Love {More}

Stone Harbor, NJ Vacaton pix (non-perfume related)

Strange Invisible Perfumes Lyric Rain

Sweden Is For Lovers

T is for Taxes

Tauer Perfumes: Incense Extrême, Incense Rosé, Lonestar Memories, & Reverie au Jardin

Tauer Perfumes Vetiver Dance

The Amazing Adventures of Kavalier & Clay

The Diary of a Nose, Book Review

The Different Company Jasmin de Nuit

The Intimacy of Scent

Thoughts of a Perfume Collector

Tightly

Tokyo Milk Ex Libris

Unlocking an Unknown: Webber Parfum 6T

Velvet & Sweet Pea's Purrfumery Bed of Roses

Venimus Vidimus Vicimus, or How 3 Perfume Bloggers and a Husband Took Rome

Vero Profumo Kiki, Onda, and Rubj

Vero Profumo Mito

Viktoria Minya Hedonist

Viktor & Rolfe Flowerbomb

What I’m Lovin’ Now

Xerjoff Mamluk

YOSH Perfumes Ginger Ciao

Yves Saint Laurent Nu

 

Estée Lauder Private Collection:

Green, Radiant and Original in every sense

 

When the sun finally came out this past weekend, after a couple months of almost solid rain, the lawns and every form of greenery — the cornfields, the golf courses, the leaves of the trees — fairly shimmered under these new blue skies. In celebration, I splurged on a bottle of Estée Lauder Private Collection, a scent as lushly green and feminine as the silk gown pictured above (worn by actress Keira Knightley in a scene from the film, Atonement). And like that gown, Private Collection is quite distinctive, in large part because it is quite green, and as such, the kind of thing not worn by the hoi polloi. I don’t mean that unkindly, but apart from the perfume-lovin’ community — which, for me, really only exists online — I generally don’t run across people in my day-to-day life who are wearing scents like Chanel No. 19, Jacomo Silences, or the original Private Collection, all of which might be considered dated, since they came out in the 1970s (although does the “dated” theory really fly, considering that Chanel No. 5 is far “older” than the forementioned scents, and even people who don't know much about perfume are apt to name it as a classic fragrance?). The new and hip Byredo Green is also not something I would come across in this college town, which is far from hipsterville, but more fashionable than many small towns. Elizabeth Arden Green Tea…that’s perhaps the only green-floral fragrance I’ve smelled around these parts, and though certainly it is light and refreshing, it doesn’t strike me as memorably green (or memorable in any regard).

 

Private Collection, because it is both of these things — a perfume of a strikingly different “color,” if you will; and a scent from yesteryear, with a retro vibe and the benefit of being more or less forgotten (our local Estée Lauder doesn’t even keep a tester of it on the counter, though they have the fragrance in stock) — smells all the more unique. Considering that it was created for Estée Lauder by perfumer Vincent Marcello, the “nose” behind the equally-arresting herbal men's scent, Caron Yatagan, another favorite of mine, probably also accounts for why it is so.

 

At its start, Private Collection is intensely green and spring-like, thanks to what smells like a heaping amount of galbanum, the sharpness of which is held in check by a sweet and lilting honeysuckle note. (The Estée Lauder website lists honeysuckle, though other websites identify the note as linden, which also has a honeysuckle-like fragrance). Soon a soft amount of jasmine becomes detectable, and the overall effect is dewy verging on heady — a scent so stunningly, tenderly green, it reminds me of Chanel Bel Respiro in a way (and wouldn’t everyone rush to purchase Bel Respiro if that beauty wasn’t so fleeting?). I would love it if this stage went on forever, and it is more lasting than Bel Respiro’s spring lawn, but eventually the honeysuckle note evaporates and the scent deepens into a mossier green. The femininity of the scent is not compromised by this change — the florals at its heart, which are very well-blended and not easy for my nose to differentiate (other than to say that I detect a floral bouquet in which jasmine and rose are present), ensure that the fragrance smells ladylike. And overall the scent stays herbal, but it’s a more reserved kind of green, a bit muted or hushed, a bit more mature with less sunlight bouncing off it. A light spiciness develops, too, over the course of the drydown — not too much, but just enough to add some interest and complexity.

 

Speaking of which, interest is something I find lacking in a couple of the recent “Private Collection”-labeled fragrances that Estée Lauder’s granddaughter, Aerin Lauder, has added to the company’s fragrance line. I realize I’m in the minority with my opinion on this, but I find Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia, in particular, to be rather wan and simple (not something you expect from a white-floral perfume), and even slightly synthetic-smelling. About the best thing I can say of it is that it is office-friendly. Private Collection Amber Ylang-Ylang is pretty, but rather conventionally so. The very latest offering, Private Collection Jasmine White Moss, which, as a green-floral chypre, would seem to have the most in common with the original Private Collection, is not something I can pass judgment on, as I haven’t smelled it yet — but a review by March of the Perfume Posse suggests that this one, too, probably wouldn’t excite me.

 

Perhaps I’m expecting too much of these newer releases, considering that Estée Lauder is a mainstream fixture of the American department store with fragrance products that are very reasonably priced. But it seems to me that when you put the words “Private Collection” on a perfume label, that label ought to be reserved for something truly special or dazzling. So far, the only Estée Lauder Private Collection scent that fits the bill (in my opinion) is the original.*

______________
 

Estée Lauder Private Collection can be purchased at most Estée Lauder counters or from the Lauder company website: $49.50 for 50 ml of the “pure fragrance spray,” which the company describes as being “a rich concentration of the scent, between Parfum and Eau de Parfum.”  Below is a list of fragrance notes form osMoz.com (which differs slightly from what is listed at the Lauder website, but seems a more accurate list to me):
 

Top: green note, orange blossom, linden

Middle: jasmine, reseda, chrysanthemum, rose

Base: sandalwood, heliotrope, musks, amber

 

Decants of Private Collection are available from my website. See perfume catalog for sizes and prices.

*Update: As it turns out, I ended up loving Private Collection Jasmine White Moss.  For my review of it, click here.

Image of actress Keira Knightley in a scene from the 2007 film, Atonement, is from Focus Features.


Posted by Suzanne Keller, 7/10/2009.


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