A More Affordable Olfactionary
Amouage Interlude Man
Amouage Opus III
Amouage Opus VAmouage Opus VI
Amouage TributeAnnick Goutal Encens Flamboyant
Annick Goutal Heure ExquiseAnnick Goutal Petite Cherie
Annick Goutal Sables
April Aromatics Calling All Angels
April Aromatics Bohemian SpiceApril Aromatics Jasmina
At the Moment (Chanel 22 & Marshall Crenshaw)
At the Moment (Secret de Suzanne /D'Orsay L'Intrigante) At the Moment (Vera Wang & Fireman's Fair novel)
Ava Luxe Café Noir
Carner Barcelona D600
Caron Aimez-MoiChantilly Dusting Powder
Clive Christian C for WomenComme des Garcons Daphne
Comme des Garcons LUXE ChampacaCostes by Costes
Creed Virgin Island WaterDeneuve
Gucci Eau de Parfum Gucci L'Arte di Gucci Guerlain Angelique Noire Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Lys Soleia
Guerlain Samsara Parfum
How I Store Decants
Il Profumo Cannabis
Kenzo Jungle l’Elephant
Kenzo SummerLa Via del Profumo Hindu Kush
La Via del Profumo Milano Caffe
La Via del Profumo Oud Caravan Project
Montale Black AoudNeila Vermeire Creations Bombay Bling
Nina Ricci L'Air du Temps
Nez a Nez Ambre a SadeOmar Sharif Pour Femme
Oriscent Pure Oud OilsParfum d'Empire Azemour
Parfum d'Empire Cuir OttomanParfum d'Empire 3 Fleurs Parfumerie Generale Indochine
Parfums de Nicolai SacrebleuParfums Retro Grand Cuir
Paris, je t'aime
Pascal Morabito Or Black
Robert Piguet Fracas
Serge Lutens Borneo 1834
Serge Lutens Boxeuses
Serge Lutens Un Lys
Sonoma Scent Studio Voile de Violette
Sonoma Scent Studio Winter Woods (brief mention)
SoOud Ouris Parfum NectarStone Harbor, NJ Vacaton pix (non-perfume related)
Strange Invisible Perfumes Lyric Rain
The Bechdel Test
The Diary of a Nose, Book Review
Tokyo Milk Ex Libris
Vero Profumo Mito Viktoria Minya Eau de Hongrie
Viktoria Minya Hedonist
Viktor & Rolfe Flowerbomb
L’Artisan Parfumeur Nuit de Tubéreuse: Tuberose with a Brand New Spin
Though I’m not an ardent fan of L’Artisan Parfumeur’s sprawling line of fragrances, there are a few that manage to captivate me, and while visiting Cow Parfymeri in Stockholm recently, I found myself charmed by Nuit de Tubéreuse.
It charmed me in the sunny-but-cool temperature of a June day in Stockholm, and it is charming me further still in the 94-degree heatwave of these recent July days in Pennsylvania.
As I sit in the muggy shade of my backyard writing this, I can almost swear I hear it humming “I got a brand new pair of roller skates, you got a brand new key,” while spinning figure eights around me. I get puffs of its effervescent scent whenever the air shifts enough to constitute a shallow breeze.
Nuit de Tubéreuse is a flirty fragrance with a fascinating set of wheels. Whereas tuberose so often conveys a thick and irresistible weightiness to perfumes—a sense of body, of flesh, of languor so sweet and slow-moving, it’s downright sinful—Nuit de Tubéreuse, on the other hand, has an impish sense of energy, thanks to the invigoration of spice and green-fruitiness that its creator, perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour, strapped on. This is a lithe tuberose, as lithe as the tuberose note in another favorite L’Artisan scent (hmm, maybe I’m more of a fan of the line than I realized)—La Chasse aux Papillons—with the same sense of movement, but little of the bashful sweetness that is found in La Chasse.
Notes of cardamom, clove, citrus and green mango, in particular, conspire to produce a ginger-like accord that surrounds the flower. Before I looked up the actual fragrance notes, I had pegged Nuit de Tubéreuse as a gingery tuberose, and even now, knowing that ginger is NOT among the notes, it still strikes me that way. I think it’s why I’m so entranced by this scent: gingery fragrances have the kind of zip that lifts my emotions and seem incredibly energizing to me. And too, Nuit de Tubéreuse reminds me of a rare tincture I once had—the gift of an herbalist—of “wild ginger”: a woodland plant found in old-growth forests in North America , so-named because its rhizomes, rather than its peculiar flower, mimic the smell of Asian ginger. I once treasured that tincture for its earthy, zingy sparkle, and now I feel like I’ve found it again in Nuit de Tubéreuse.
Of course, the spice also adds a fine edge of sex appeal. A playful, teasing kind of sexiness—flirty rather than vampish. There is a translucency to Nuit de Tubéreuse that makes it perfect for daywear and leads one to wonder how the fragrance got its name. I suppose the spice, enhanced by dusty notes of black and pink pepper, could translate as dusky to some people—and tuberose is a night blooming plant, after all. And again, there is a sense of fluttery movement to the fragrance not unlike the court-and-spark of moth to flower…
“I rode my bicycle past your window last night,” it is singing in my ear now.
“I rollerskated to your door at daylight,” it reminds me softly but insistently.
Nuit de Tubéreuse might have wheels on its feet, but its will is as solid and unwavering as all the other beautiful tuberoses that I know.
Nuit de Tubéreuse eau de parfum by L’Artisan Parfumeur has notes of cardamom, clove, pink pepper, black pepper, citrus, green mango, angelica, tuberose, orange blossom, ylang-ylang, rose, broom, musks, vanilla, sandalwood, palisander, benzoin and styrax.
It is available from LuckyScent.com, $115 for 50 ml. I purchased my bottle from Cow Parfymeri in Stockholm.
"Brand New Key" is a pop song written by folk-singer Melanie (Melanie Safka), which became a novelty hit in the U.S. in 1971-72.
Image is a film still of actress Paulette Goddard from the film Modern Times, found at rantburg.com.
Posted by Suzanne Keller, 7/8/2010.
All I Am - A Redhead
A Perfume Blog (Blacknall Allen)
Another Perfume Blog (Natalie)
Australian Perfume Junkies
Beauty on the Outside
Bois de Jasmin
Bonkers About Perfume
Ca Fleure Bon
Eyeliner on a Cat
From Top to Bottom - Perfume Patter
Giovanni Sammarco (artisanal perfumer) blog
Grain de Musc
I Smell Therefore I Am
Katie Puckrik Smells
Memory of Scent
Muse in Wooden Shoes
Natural Perfumery by Salaam
Notes on Shoes, Cake & Perfume
Notes From Josephine
Notes From the Ledge
Now Smell This
Oh, True Apothecary!
Purple Paper Planes
Redolent of Spices
Riktig Parfym: Ramblings of a Fragrant Fanatic
Scents of Place
Scents of Self
Sorcery of Scent
The Alembicated Genie
The Cow Jumped Over the Moon
The Fragrant Man
The French Exit
The Perfumed Maze
The Perfume Magpie
The Scented Hound
The Sounds of Scent
The Vintage Perfume Vault
This Blog Really Stinks
Undina's Looking Glass
WAFT by Carol