Eiderdown Press
Unique Books and Hand-Decanted Perfumes
Nuit de Tubereuse
Suzanne’s Perfume Journal

Click on Links to Previous Posts, below

A Conversation on Arabie

A More Affordable Olfactionary

Amouage Dia (pour femme)

Amouage Epic Woman

Amouage Gold

Amouage Jubilation 25

Amouage Lyric Woman

Amouage Tribute

Amouage Ubar

Aroma M Geisha Rouge

Ava Luxe Café Noir

Best of 2009

Bond No. 9 Brooklyn

Bond No. 9 New Haarlem

Byredo Green

Capote, Truman & Evening in Paris

Caron French Cancan

Caron Parfum Sacre

Caron Tabac Blond

Caron Tubereuse

Caron Yatagan

Chanel 31 Rue Cambon

Chanel Bel Respiro

Chanel Chance

Chanel Coromandel

Chanel Egoiste

Chanel No. 5 (vintage)

Chanel No. 22

Chantilly Dusting Powder

Comme des Garcons LUXE Champaca

Comme des Garcons Series 7 Sweet Nomad Tea

Coty Ambre Antique

Coty Chypre

Creed Acqua Fiorentina

Creed Fleurs de Bulgarie

DSH Perfumes Quinacridone Violet

Deneuve

Donna Karan Black Cashmere

Estee Lauder Private Collection

Estee Lauder Private Collection Jasmine White Moss

Favorite Fall Fragrances

Fragrances for Sweden

Frederic Malle Angeliques Sous La Pluie

Frederic Malle Bigarade Concentrée

Frederic Malle Carnal Flower

Frederic Malle Geranium Pour Monsieur

Frederic Malle Le Parfum de Therese

Frederic Malle Lipstick Rose

Frederic Malle Une Fleur de Cassie

Frederic Malle Une Rose

Geoffrey Beene Grey Flannel

Gucci L'Arte di Gucci

Guerlain Jicky

Guerlain Parure

Guerlain Vega

Happy Solstice

Hermes 24, Faubourg

Hermes Caleche (vintage)

Hermes Eau des Merveilles

Hermes Hiris

Histoires de Parfums 1740

Histoires de Parfums 1828

Histoires de Parfums Blanc Violette

Histoires de Parfums Vert Pivoine

How I Store Decants

In Memory (w/mention of Lanvin Arpege)

Jean Desprez Bal a Versailles

Jean Patou 1000

Juliet by Juliet Stewart

Kenzo Jungle l’Elephant

L'Artisan Parfumeur Nuit de Tubereuse

L'Artisan Parfumeur Orchidee Blanche

L’Artisan Parfumeur Passage d’Enfer

L’Artisan Parfumeur Tea for Two

La Via del Profumo Balsamo Della Mecca

Le Labo Patchouli 24

Little Lists

Lorenzo Villoresi Yerbamate

Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Eau des Iles

Message In A Bottle 

Miscellany 

Molinard Habanita

Mona Di Orio Nuit Noire

Montale Black Aoud

Montale Boise Vanille

Montale Intense Tiare

Montale Patchouli Leaves

More Roses (rose cookie recipe)

My Heart Has Skipped A Beat (summer smells)

My Perfumes Have Theme Songs

Nasomatto China White

Olivier Durbano Black Tourmaline

Ormonde Jayne Frangipani

Ormonde Jayne Perfumery Ormonde Woman

Oscar de la Renta Oscar for Men

Parfum d'Empire 3 Fleurs

Parfumerie Generale Bois de Copaiba

Parfums de Nicolai Sacrebleu

Parfums DelRae Amoureuse

Parfums Karl Lagerfeld Sun Moon Stars

Pascal Morabito Or Black 

Perfume Quotes - The English Patient

Profumum Roma Acqua Viva

Profumum Roma D'Ambrosia

Puredistance I

Recipe for Socca

Robert Piguet Fracas

Robert Piguet Visa

Sarah Horowitz Parfums' Joy Comes From Within & Beauty Comes From Within

Scented Reading

Scents of the Mediterranean

Scentuous Reading: One Hundred Years of Solitude

Serge Lutens Arabie

Serge Lutens Chêne

Serge Lutens Chergui

Serge Lutens Five O’Clock Au Gingembre

Serge Lutens Miel de Bois

Serge Lutens Tubereuse Criminelle

Serge Lutens Un Lys

Snow Days

Sonoma Scent Studio Incense Pure

Sonoma Scent Studio Jour Ensoleille

S-Perfume 100% Love {More}

Strange Invisible Perfumes Lyric Rain

Sweden Is For Lovers

T is for Taxes

Tauer Perfumes: Incense Extrême, Incense Rosé, Lonestar Memories, & Reverie au Jardin

Tauer Perfumes Vetiver Dance

The Amazing Adventures of Kavalier & Clay

The Intimacy of Scent

Thoughts of a Perfume Collector

Tightly

Unlocking an Unknown: Webber Parfum 6T

Vero Profumo Kiki, Onda, and Rubj

Viktor & Rolfe Flowerbomb

What I’m Lovin’ Now

Yves Saint Laurent Nu

L’Artisan Parfumeur Nuit de Tubéreuse: Tuberose with a Brand New Spin

Though I’m not an ardent fan of L’Artisan Parfumeur’s sprawling line of fragrances, there are a few that manage to captivate me, and while visiting Cow Parfymeri in Stockholm recently, I found myself charmed by Nuit de Tubéreuse.

It charmed me in the sunny-but-cool temperature of a June day in Stockholm, and it is charming me further still in the 94-degree heatwave of these recent July days in Pennsylvania.

As I sit in the muggy shade of my backyard writing this, I can almost swear I hear it humming “I got a brand new pair of roller skates, you got a brand new key,” while spinning figure eights around me. I get puffs of its effervescent scent whenever the air shifts enough to constitute a shallow breeze.

Nuit de Tubéreuse is a flirty fragrance with a fascinating set of wheels. Whereas tuberose so often conveys a thick and irresistible weightiness to perfumes—a sense of body, of flesh, of languor so sweet and slow-moving, it’s downright sinful—Nuit de Tubéreuse, on the other hand, has an impish sense of energy, thanks to the invigoration of spice and green-fruitiness that its creator, perfumer Bertrand Duchafour, strapped on. This is a lithe tuberose, as lithe as the tuberose note in another favorite L’Artisan scent (hmm, maybe I’m more of a fan of the line than I realized)—La Chasse aux Papillons—with the same sense of movement, but little of the bashful sweetness that is found in La Chasse.

Notes of cardamom, clove, citrus and green mango, in particular, conspire to produce a ginger-like accord that surrounds the flower. Before I looked up the actual fragrance notes, I had pegged Nuit de Tubéreuse as a gingery tuberose, and even now, knowing that ginger is NOT among the notes, it still strikes me that way. I think it’s why I’m so entranced by this scent: gingery fragrances have the kind of zip that lifts my emotions and seem incredibly energizing to me. And too, Nuit de Tubéreuse reminds me of a rare tincture I once had—the gift of an herbalist—of “wild ginger”: a woodland plant found in old-growth forests in North America , so-named because its rhizomes, rather than its peculiar flower, mimic the smell of Asian ginger. I once treasured that tincture for its earthy, zingy sparkle, and now I feel like I’ve found it again in Nuit de Tubéreuse.

Of course, the spice also adds a fine edge of sex appeal. A playful, teasing kind of sexiness—flirty rather than vampish.  There is a translucency to Nuit de Tubéreuse that makes it perfect for daywear and leads one to wonder how the fragrance got its name. I suppose the spice, enhanced by dusty notes of black and pink pepper, could translate as dusky to some people—and tuberose is a night blooming plant, after all. And again, there is a sense of fluttery movement to the fragrance not unlike the court-and-spark of moth to flower…

“I rode my bicycle past your window last night,” it is singing in my ear now.

 “I rollerskated to your door at daylight,” it reminds me softly but insistently.

Nuit de Tubéreuse might have wheels on its feet, but its will is as solid and unwavering as all the other beautiful tuberoses that I know.


Nuit de Tubéreuse eau de parfum by L’Artisan Parfumeur has notes of cardamom, clove, pink pepper, black pepper, citrus, green mango, angelica, tuberose, orange blossom, ylang-ylang, rose, broom, musks, vanilla, sandalwood, palisander, benzoin and styrax.

It is available from LuckyScent.com, $115 for 50 ml. I purchased my bottle from Cow Parfymeri in Stockholm and am offering decants for sale on the
perfume catalog page of my website.

Credits:
 
"Brand New Key" is a pop song written by folk-singer Melanie (Melanie Safka), which became a novelty hit in the U.S. in 1971-72.

Image is a film still of actress Paulette Goddard from the film Modern Times, found at rantburg.com.
 

Posted by Suzanne Keller, 7/8/2010.

__________________________________________________________

1000 Fragrances

All I Am - A Redhead

Ars Aromatica


Bergamotto e Benzoino 

BitterGrace Notes

Bloody Frida

Bois de Jasmin

Bonkers About Perfume

ChickenFreak's Obsessions

Fragrance Bouquet

Glass Petal Smoke

Grain de Musc

Hortus Conclusus

Katie Puckrik Smells

LunarSoul's Weblog

Memory & Desire

Muses in Wooden Shoes 

Nathan Branch

Notes on Shoes, Cake & Perfume

Notes From the Ledge

Now Smell This

Olfactarama
 

Parfümieren 

PereDePierre 

Perfume Posse

Perfume Shrine

Perfume-Smellin' Things

Sakecat's Scent Project


Scented Salamander


Scent Hive

Smelly Blog

Sniffapalooza Magazine
 

Sweet Diva

Tea, Sympathy and Perfume

The Non-Blonde 

WAFT by Carol