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Nuit de Tubereuse
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Arquiste Boutonniere no. 7

At the Moment (Chanel 22 & Marshall Crenshaw)

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Ava Luxe Café Noir

Beatnik Emptiness Incense

Best of 2009

Bond No. 9 Andy Warhol Silver Factory

Bond No. 9 Brooklyn

Bond No. 9 Little Italy

Bond No. 9 New Haarlem

Bottega Veneta eau de parfum

Breath of God

Byredo Green

By Kilian Amber Oud

Calyx by Prescriptives

Canturi by Stefano Canturi

Capote, Truman & Evening in Paris

Carner Barcelona D600

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Cartier II L'Heure Convoitee

Cartier IV L'Heure Fougueuse

Chanel 31 Rue Cambon

Chanel Bel Respiro

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Chanel Coromandel

Chanel Cuir de Russie

Chanel Egoiste

Chanel No. 5 (vintage)

Chanel No. 22

Chantecaille Petales

Chantilly Dusting Powder

Clive Christian C for Women

Comme des Garcons Daphne

Comme des Garcons LUXE Champaca

Comme des Garcons Series 7 Sweet Nomad Tea

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Coty Ambre Antique

Coty Chypre

Coty Paris

Creature by Kerosene

Creed Acqua Fiorentina

Creed Fleurs de Bulgarie

Creed Virgin Island Water

DSH Perfumes Bancha Extreme

DSH Perfumes Quinacridone Violet 

DSH Perfumes Vert pour Madame

Deneuve

Devilscent Project

Dior Diorissimo (vintage)

Donna Karan Black Cashmere

EnVoyage Vents Ardents

EnVoyage Zelda

Estee Lauder Private Collection

Estee Lauder Private Collection Jasmine White Moss

Etat Libre d'Orange Rien, Rossy de Palma & Noel au Balcon

Faberge Woodhue Cologne

Favorite Fall Fragrances

Fendi Uomo

Fragrances for Sweden

Frapin 1697 Absolu Parfum

Frederic Malle Angeliques Sous La Pluie

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Geoffrey Beene Grey Flannel

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Gone Fishin'

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Guy Laroche J'ai Ose (vintage)

Happy Solstice

Hermes 24, Faubourg

Hermes Caleche (vintage)

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Hermes L'Ambre des Merveilles

Histoires de Parfums 1740

Histoires de Parfums 1828

Histoires de Parfums Blanc Violette

Histoires de Parfums Vert Pivoine

Hometown Portrait, State College, PA

Honore des Pres Vamp a NY

House of Matriarch Carmine

How I Store Decants

Il Profumo Cannabis

In Memory (w/mention of Lanvin Arpege)

Jacomo #02

Jacomo #09 (Link to my review in Sniffapalooza Magazine)

Jean Desprez Bal a Versailles

Jean Patou Joy

Jean Patou 1000

Jo Malone Sweet Milk Cologne 

Juliet by Juliet Stewart

Kai Eau de Parfum

Kenzo Jungle l’Elephant

Kenzo Summer

Lancome Magie Noire (vintage) 

Lanvin Via Lanvin (vintage) 

L'Artisan Parfumeur Nuit de Tubereuse

L'Artisan Parfumeur Orchidee Blanche 

L’Artisan Parfumeur Passage d’Enfer

L'Artisan Parfumeur Seville a l'Aube

L’Artisan Parfumeur Tea for Two

La Via del Profumo Balsamo Della Mecca

La Via del Profumo Hindu Kush

La Via del Profumo Milano Caffe

La Via del Profumo Oud Caravan Project

La Via del Profumo Sharif

La Via del Profumo Tawaf

Le Labo Gaiac 10

Le Labo Patchouli 24

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Lorenzo Villoresi Yerbamate

M. Micallef Vanille Orient

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Absolue Pour le Soir

Maison Martin Margiela (untitled) eau de parfum

Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Eau des Iles

Message In A Bottle 

Michael Storer Winter Star

Miller Harris L'Air de Rien

Miscellany

Missoni (original) by Missoni

Molinard Habanita

Mona Di Orio Nuit Noire

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More Roses (rose cookie recipe)

My Heart Has Skipped a Beat (summer smells)

My Perfumes Have Theme Songs

Nasomatto China White

Neila Vermeire Creations Bombay Bling

Nina Ricci L'Air du Temps

Nez a Nez Ambre a Sade

Northern Exposure "A Dash of Chanel No. 5"

Odin 04 Petrana (Link to my review in Sniffapalooza Magazine)

Olivier Durbano Black Tourmaline

Omar Sharif Pour Femme

Oriscent Pure Oud Oils

Ormonde Jayne Frangipani

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O Tannenbaum Joint Blog Project

Parfum d'Empire Azemour

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Paris, je t'aime

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Perfume Quotes - The English Patient

Prada Infusion d'Iris Absolue

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Prince Matchabelli Aviance Cologne (vintage) 

Profumum Roma Acqua Viva

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Ramon Monegal Cherry Musk

Recipe for Socca

Regina Harris Amber Vanilla Perfume Oil

Regina Harris Frankincense-Myrrh-Rose Maroc Perfume Oil

Robert Piguet Fracas

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Rome Vacation Photos

Sarah Horowitz Parfums' Joy Comes From Within & Beauty Comes From Within

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S-Perfume 100% Love {More}

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Tauer Perfumes: Incense Extrême, Incense Rosé, Lonestar Memories, & Reverie au Jardin

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The Diary of a Nose, Book Review

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Unlocking an Unknown: Webber Parfum 6T

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Xerjoff Mamluk

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Yves Saint Laurent Nu

L’Artisan Parfumeur Nuit de Tubéreuse: Tuberose with a Brand New Spin

Though I’m not an ardent fan of L’Artisan Parfumeur’s sprawling line of fragrances, there are a few that manage to captivate me, and while visiting Cow Parfymeri in Stockholm recently, I found myself charmed by Nuit de Tubéreuse.

It charmed me in the sunny-but-cool temperature of a June day in Stockholm, and it is charming me further still in the 94-degree heatwave of these recent July days in Pennsylvania.

As I sit in the muggy shade of my backyard writing this, I can almost swear I hear it humming “I got a brand new pair of roller skates, you got a brand new key,” while spinning figure eights around me. I get puffs of its effervescent scent whenever the air shifts enough to constitute a shallow breeze.

Nuit de Tubéreuse is a flirty fragrance with a fascinating set of wheels. Whereas tuberose so often conveys a thick and irresistible weightiness to perfumes—a sense of body, of flesh, of languor so sweet and slow-moving, it’s downright sinful—Nuit de Tubéreuse, on the other hand, has an impish sense of energy, thanks to the invigoration of spice and green-fruitiness that its creator, perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour, strapped on. This is a lithe tuberose, as lithe as the tuberose note in another favorite L’Artisan scent (hmm, maybe I’m more of a fan of the line than I realized)—La Chasse aux Papillons—with the same sense of movement, but little of the bashful sweetness that is found in La Chasse.

Notes of cardamom, clove, citrus and green mango, in particular, conspire to produce a ginger-like accord that surrounds the flower. Before I looked up the actual fragrance notes, I had pegged Nuit de Tubéreuse as a gingery tuberose, and even now, knowing that ginger is NOT among the notes, it still strikes me that way. I think it’s why I’m so entranced by this scent: gingery fragrances have the kind of zip that lifts my emotions and seem incredibly energizing to me. And too, Nuit de Tubéreuse reminds me of a rare tincture I once had—the gift of an herbalist—of “wild ginger”: a woodland plant found in old-growth forests in North America , so-named because its rhizomes, rather than its peculiar flower, mimic the smell of Asian ginger. I once treasured that tincture for its earthy, zingy sparkle, and now I feel like I’ve found it again in Nuit de Tubéreuse.

Of course, the spice also adds a fine edge of sex appeal. A playful, teasing kind of sexiness—flirty rather than vampish.  There is a translucency to Nuit de Tubéreuse that makes it perfect for daywear and leads one to wonder how the fragrance got its name. I suppose the spice, enhanced by dusty notes of black and pink pepper, could translate as dusky to some people—and tuberose is a night blooming plant, after all. And again, there is a sense of fluttery movement to the fragrance not unlike the court-and-spark of moth to flower…

“I rode my bicycle past your window last night,” it is singing in my ear now.

 “I rollerskated to your door at daylight,” it reminds me softly but insistently.

Nuit de Tubéreuse might have wheels on its feet, but its will is as solid and unwavering as all the other beautiful tuberoses that I know.


Nuit de Tubéreuse eau de parfum by L’Artisan Parfumeur has notes of cardamom, clove, pink pepper, black pepper, citrus, green mango, angelica, tuberose, orange blossom, ylang-ylang, rose, broom, musks, vanilla, sandalwood, palisander, benzoin and styrax.

It is available from LuckyScent.com, $115 for 50 ml. I purchased my bottle from Cow Parfymeri in Stockholm
.

Credits:
 
"Brand New Key" is a pop song written by folk-singer Melanie (Melanie Safka), which became a novelty hit in the U.S. in 1971-72.

Image is a film still of actress Paulette Goddard from the film Modern Times, found at rantburg.com.
 

Posted by Suzanne Keller, 7/8/2010.


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