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Suzanne’s Perfume Journal
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A Conversation on Arabie

A Package from Christos: Greek Sandals & Oud Cuir d'Arabie

A Package from Ines

A Package from Lavanya

A More Affordable Olfactionary

A Week of Wearing What I Like

Amouage Dia (pour femme)

Amouage Dia (pour homme)

Amouage Epic Woman

Amouage Gold

Amouage Interlude Man

Amouage Jubilation 25 

Amouage Lyric Woman

Amouage Memoir Woman

Amouage Opus I

Amouage Opus III

Amouage Opus IV

Amouage Opus V

Amouage Opus VI

Amouage Tribute

Amouage Ubar

Annick Goutal Ambre Fetiche

Annick Goutal Encens Flamboyant

Annick Goutal Heure Exquise

Annick Goutal Petite Cherie

Annick Goutal Sables

April Aromatics Calling All Angels

April Aromatics Bohemian Spice

April Aromatics Jasmina 

April Aromatics Nectar of Love

April Aromatics Rose L'Orange

Aroma M Geisha Green

Aroma M Geisha Rouge

Arquiste Anima Dulcis

Arquiste Boutonniere no. 7

At the Moment (Chanel 22 & Marshall Crenshaw)

At the Moment (Contemplating Change & Habit Rouge)

At the Moment (Marron Chic & Paris)

At the Moment (More Midsummer Delights/Epic/Geisha Noire)

At the Moment (Saki & Lubin Idole edt)

At the Moment (Secret de Suzanne /D'Orsay L'Intrigante)

At the Moment (Spring Pretties/Un Air de Samsara)

At the Moment (Summery Things...Love Coconut)

At the Moment (Vera Wang & Fireman's Fair novel)

Ava Luxe Café Noir

Beatnik Emptiness Incense

Best of 2009

Bond No. 9 Andy Warhol Silver Factory

Bond No. 9 Brooklyn

Bond No. 9 Little Italy

Bond No. 9 New Haarlem

Bottega Veneta eau de parfum

Breath of God

Byredo Green

By Kilian Amber Oud

By Kilian Forbidden Games and In the City of Sin

Calyx by Prescriptives

Canturi by Stefano Canturi

Capote, Truman & Evening in Paris

Carner Barcelona D600

Caron Aimez-Moi

Caron French Cancan

Caron Parfum Sacre

Caron Tabac Blond

Caron Tubereuse

Caron Yatagan

Cartier II L'Heure Convoitee

Cartier IV L'Heure Fougueuse

Chanel 31 Rue Cambon

Chanel Bel Respiro

Chanel Chance

Chanel Coco

Chanel Coromandel

Chanel Cuir de Russie

Chanel Egoiste

Chanel No. 5 (vintage)

Chanel No. 22

Chantecaille Petales

Chantilly Dusting Powder

Clive Christian C for Women

Comme des Garcons Daphne

Comme des Garcons LUXE Champaca

Comme des Garcons Series 7 Sweet Nomad Tea

Costes by Costes

Coty Ambre Antique

Coty Chypre

Coty Paris

Creature by Kerosene

Creed Acqua Fiorentina

Creed Fleurs de Bulgarie

Creed Virgin Island Water

DSH Perfumes Bancha Extreme

DSH Perfumes Quinacridone Violet 

DSH Perfumes Vert pour Madame

Deneuve

Devilscent Project

Dior Diorissimo (vintage)

Donna Karan Black Cashmere

EnVoyage Vents Ardents

EnVoyage Zelda

Estee Lauder Private Collection

Estee Lauder Private Collection Jasmine White Moss

Etat Libre d'Orange Rien, Rossy de Palma & Noel au Balcon

Faberge Woodhue Cologne

Favorite Fall Fragrances

Fendi Uomo

Fragrances for Sweden

Frapin 1697 Absolu Parfum

Frederic Malle Angeliques Sous La Pluie

Frederic Malle Bigarade Concentrée

Frederic Malle Carnal Flower

Frederic Malle Geranium Pour Monsieur

Frederic Malle Iris Poudre

Frederic Malle Le Parfum de Therese

Frederic Malle Lipstick Rose

Frederic Malle Noir Epices

Frederic Malle Portrait of a Lady

Frederic Malle Une Fleur de Cassie

Frederic Malle Une Rose

Geoffrey Beene Grey Flannel

Ghosts of Perfumes Past, Present & Future

Gone Fishin'

Gucci Eau de Parfum

Gucci L'Arte di Gucci

Gucci Pour Homme

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Lys Soleia

Guerlain Aroma Allegoria Exaltant

Guerlain Attrape Coeur

Guerlain Chamade

Guerlain Jicky

Guerlain Mayotte

Guerlain Parure

Guerlain Samsara Parfum

Guerlain Un Air de Samsara

Guerlain Vega

Guerlain Vetiver (vintage)

Guy Laroche J'ai Ose (vintage)

Happy Solstice

Hermes 24, Faubourg

Hermes Caleche (vintage)

Hermes Eau des Merveilles

Hermes Hiris

Hermes Iris Ukiyoe

Hermes L'Ambre des Merveilles

Histoires de Parfums 1740

Histoires de Parfums 1828

Histoires de Parfums Blanc Violette

Histoires de Parfums Vert Pivoine

Hometown Portrait, State College, PA

Honore des Pres Vamp a NY

House of Matriarch Carmine

How I Store Decants

Il Profumo Cannabis

In Memory (w/mention of Lanvin Arpege)

Jacomo #02

Jacomo #09 (Link to my review in Sniffapalooza Magazine)

Jean Desprez Bal a Versailles

Jean Patou Joy

Jean Patou 1000

Jo Malone Saffron Cologne Intense

Jo Malone Sweet Milk Cologne 

Juliet by Juliet Stewart

Kai Eau de Parfum

Kenzo Jungle l’Elephant

Kenzo Summer

Lancome Magie Noire (vintage) 

Lanvin Via Lanvin (vintage) 

L'Artisan Parfumeur Nuit de Tubereuse

L'Artisan Parfumeur Orchidee Blanche 

L’Artisan Parfumeur Passage d’Enfer

L'Artisan Parfumeur Seville a l'Aube

L’Artisan Parfumeur Tea for Two

La Via del Profumo Balsamo Della Mecca

La Via del Profumo Hindu Kush

La Via del Profumo Milano Caffe

La Via del Profumo Oud Caravan Project

La Via del Profumo Sharif

La Via del Profumo Tawaf

Le Labo Gaiac 10

Le Labo Iris 39

Le Labo Patchouli 24

Le Labo Poivre 23

Little Lists

Lorenzo Villoresi Yerbamate

M. Micallef Vanille Orient

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Absolue Pour le Soir

Maison Martin Margiela (untitled) eau de parfum

Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Eau des Iles

Message In A Bottle 

Michael Storer Winter Star

Miller Harris L'Air de Rien

Miscellany

Missoni (original) by Missoni

Molinard Habanita

Mona Di Orio Nuit Noire

Mona Di Orio Oud

Mona Di Orio Vanille

Montale Black Aoud

Montale Boise Vanille

Montale Intense Tiare

Montale Patchouli Leaves

Montale Red Aoud

More Roses (rose cookie recipe)

My Heart Has Skipped a Beat (summer smells)

My Perfumes Have Theme Songs

Nasomatto China White

Neila Vermeire Creations Bombay Bling

Nina Ricci L'Air du Temps

Nez a Nez Ambre a Sade

Northern Exposure "A Dash of Chanel No. 5"

Odin 04 Petrana (Link to my review in Sniffapalooza Magazine)

Olivier Durbano Black Tourmaline

Omar Sharif Pour Femme

Oriscent Pure Oud Oils

Ormonde Jayne Frangipani

Ormonde Jayne Ormonde Woman

Oscar de la Renta Oscar for Men

O Tannenbaum Joint Blog Project

Parfum d'Empire Azemour

Parfum d'Empire Cuir Ottoman

Parfum d'Empire Equistrius

Parfum d'Empire 3 Fleurs

Parfumerie Generale Bois de Copaiba

Parfumerie Generale Indochine

Parfumerie Generale Un Crime Exotique

Parfums de Nicolai Sacrebleu

Parfums DelRae Amoureuse

Parfums Karl Lagerfeld Sun Moon Stars

Parfums MDCI Chypre Palatin

Parfums Retro Grand Cuir

Paris, je t'aime

Pascal Morabito Or Black 

Perfume Quotes - The English Patient

Prada Infusion d'Iris Absolue

Pretty Perfume Bottles 

Prince Matchabelli Aviance Cologne (vintage) 

Profumum Roma Acqua Viva

Profumum Roma D'Ambrosia

Puredistance I

Puredistance Antonia

Puredistance BLACK

Puredistance M

Puredistance Opardu

Ramon Monegal Cherry Musk

Recipe for Socca

Regina Harris Amber Vanilla Perfume Oil

Regina Harris Frankincense-Myrrh-Rose Maroc Perfume Oil

Robert Piguet Fracas

Robert Piguet Visa

Rochas Mystere 

Rome Vacation Photos

San Francisco Holiday

Sarah Horowitz Parfums' Joy Comes From Within & Beauty Comes From Within

Scented Reading

Scents of the Mediterranean

Scentuous Reading: One Hundred Years of Solitude

Serge Lutens Arabie

Serge Lutens Borneo 1834

Serge Lutens Boxeuses

Serge Lutens Chêne

Serge Lutens Chergui

Serge Lutens Fille en Aiguilles

Serge Lutens Five O’Clock Au Gingembre

Serge Lutens Fumerie Turque

Serge Lutens Miel de Bois

Serge Lutens Muscs Koublai Khan

Serge Lutens Tubereuse Criminelle

Serge Lutens Un Lys

Serge Lutens Vetiver Oriental

Slumberhouse Rume

Snow Days

Sonoma Scent Studio Incense Pure

Sonoma Scent Studio Jour Ensoleille

Sonoma Scent Studio Voile de Violette

Sonoma Scent Studio Winter Woods (brief mention)

SoOud Ouris Parfum Nectar

S-Perfume 100% Love {More}

Stone Harbor, NJ Vacaton pix (non-perfume related)

Strange Invisible Perfumes Lyric Rain

Sweden Is For Lovers

T is for Taxes

Tauer Perfumes: Incense Extrême, Incense Rosé, Lonestar Memories, & Reverie au Jardin

Tauer Perfumes Vetiver Dance

The Amazing Adventures of Kavalier & Clay

The Diary of a Nose, Book Review

The Different Company Jasmin de Nuit

The Intimacy of Scent

Thoughts of a Perfume Collector

Tightly

Tokyo Milk Ex Libris

Unlocking an Unknown: Webber Parfum 6T

Velvet & Sweet Pea's Purrfumery Bed of Roses

Venimus Vidimus Vicimus, or How 3 Perfume Bloggers and a Husband Took Rome

Vero Profumo Kiki, Onda, and Rubj

Vero Profumo Mito

Viktoria Minya Hedonist

Viktor & Rolfe Flowerbomb

What I’m Lovin’ Now

Xerjoff Mamluk

YOSH Perfumes Ginger Ciao

Yves Saint Laurent Nu

A VISIT FROM MY MOTHER, OLFACTORY OBSESSION, AND NASOMATTO CHINA WHITE

 

I haven’t had much time to studiously contemplate perfumes lately: my mom and stepdad came up from Florida and had been staying at my house until yesterday, when they embarked on their long drive back home.  But I have had ample opportunity to smell perfumes on other people, those near and dear to me, and that has been fun.  At a family dinner last Sunday, my two nieces arrived wearing Carnal Flower and New Haarlem, my mom had on Black Cashmere, and my husband, Yatagan.  Whatever fragrances anyone else had on—myself included—I have forgotten, but I can tell you there was a lovely commingling of scents wafting across my patio that evening; as a group, we created our own unique flower bomb, and it made me deliriously happy.

 

When I first began collecting perfumes, I think my family thought I was a little crazy.  Perhaps they still think that in some ways, but since I began decanting fragrances for them, their regard towards my perfume obsession has, to my surprise and delight, become a shared appreciation.  Also, I suspect they are happy that my obsession is with perfumes rather than with, say, postage stamps or Hummel figurines or the Philadelphia Eagles.  There is something elegant about amassing pretty glass bottles filled with jewel-colored elixirs, even when one has amassed a gargantuan amount of them (which I haven’t…yet), whereas with a stamp or ceramics or sports memorabilia obsession, I imagine one would always be treading the border of Tacky town.  Think about this: if you loved stamps as much as perfumes, what would your house look like?  I envision houses hand-wallpapered with Elvis Presley stamps and that sort of thing.  (Though when I did a Google search on stamp collectors, it looks like they mainly showcase their collection in books, and the one house I found that was wallpapered in stamps reveals a mosaic-like work of impressive beauty.) 

 

While she was here, my mother also wore the Chanel Coromandel I sent her last fall, and every time she put it on, I went Mmmm.  The smell I loved most, however, was her own unique skin smell, which has entranced me since I was a child.  Supposedly everyone has their own uniquely identifiable smell, yet I have only noticed this with a select few people in my life.  If I were to lose touch with everyone in my family and then one day cross paths with them on a busy street in a foreign country, the first person I’d be able to sniff out would be my mom.  Her skin smells earthy and warm in a very good way, but really there are no words to describe it.  It’s a comforting scent, and prominent—even my husband notices it.  When I was a little girl, there were several occasions when my mom went on a trip by herself, and when she did, our family dog, Jimmy, would get so upset that he would seek out an article of her recently-worn clothing—usually the night gown she kept folded under her pillow—and then proceed to chew it to bits.  He could have taken his anger out in a number of ways, and certainly there were other family members’ shoes or clothes he could have gnawed on, but always he sought out something that carried my mom’s warm smell and then destroyed it—something he never did in daily life, only when she went away.  And now that she is gone from my house, the scent of her still lingering but quickly ebbing, I think I understand his doggy grief.

 

Anyway, what I suppose I’m trying to say in this rambling and rather aimless post is that, though I haven’t been actively thinking about fragrances the past couple weeks, the subject of smell—both perfumed and natural—is never far from my mind.  It’s my obsession, and if you’re still reading this, it is probably your obsession, too.  I’m thinking that obsession, fanaticism, addiction, whatever you want to call it, might be part of our human-animal makeup, though how we express (or repress) it is the true reflection of our individuality.  Maybe later in life I will collect stamps or heirloom flower seeds; maybe in another life, with a persona radically different from the one I have now, I will accumulate tattoos.

 

But for now, it’s perfumes—so I’ll end this post by saying that there is one fragrance that wormed its way into my consciousness over the past couple weeks, and apropos to this post, it is China White, a pricey extrait de parfum from the niche house Nasomatto.  China White is addictive, though I’m not sure if it’s the fragrance itself or the mystery of its construction that accounts for why I can’t get this scent off my mind.  I would love to know just what the hell is in this stuff; it strikes me as a truly cunning decision by the Nasomatto people to withhold details about their fragrances (their website provides very little in the way of description and nothing in terms of perfume notes).  Were I to wager a guess, I’d say this is a vetiver scent and that other key notes include castoreum, to account for the light ashtray that is prominent during the first half-hour of wear; iris, to account for the powdery quality; tuberose—a soupçon of it at least—to provide a hint of the buttery flesh note I smell (and reminding me of the pale arm being proffered to the needle—the image that comes to mind when I think of the perfume’s name and its reference to heroin); and sandalwood, the warm, sweet smell of expensive Mysore sandalwood, that would account for this perfume’s silky smooth blend as well as its spendy pricetag.

 

On immediate application, this scent doesn’t give me any kind of euphoric jolt—in fact, I feel rather underwhelmed by it and ready to write it off.  But as it develops, I am more than intrigued; I can’t keep my wrist away from my nose.  It is floral without being flowery, slightly green and woody, and just powdery enough to make you imagine a bag of heroin—or a discreet dusting of expensive talcum powder.  At a cost of $148 per 30 ml (one ounce), it’s not priced terribly: after all, this is pure perfume we’re talking about, not an eau de parfum.  But it’s pricey enough that I’d probably seek out a small decant before buying a bottle, because, for me, the mystique of this fragrance stems mainly from my curious desire to know what’s in it.  I suppose I’ll have to wait until a better nose than mine reviews this fragrance, and wait I will.

 

My obsession, it seems, extends only so far.

 

Image of Nasomatto China White is from LuckyScent.com, where it can be purchased. 

Posted by Suzanne Keller, 7/27/08.

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Australian Perfume Junkies

Beauty on the Outside
 

Bloody Frida

Bois de Jasmin

Bonkers About Perfume

Ca Fleure Bon

ChickenFreak's Obsessions

EauMG

Eyeliner on a Cat

Fragrance Bouquet

From Top to Bottom - Perfume Patter

Giovanni Sammarco (artisanal perfumer) blog

Grain de Musc

I Smell Therefore I Am

Kafkaesque

Katie Puckrik Smells

Memory of Scent

Muse in Wooden Shoes 

Nathan Branch

Natural Perfumery by Salaam

Notes on Shoes, Cake & Perfume

Notes From Josephine

Notes From the Ledge

Now Smell This

Oh, True Apothecary! 

Olfactarama 

Olfactoria's Travels 

Parfumistans blogg

PereDePierre 

Perfume Posse

Perfume Shrine

Perfume-Smellin' Things

Purple Paper Planes

Redolent of Spices

Riktig Parfym: Ramblings of a Fragrant Fanatic

Scented Salamander

Scents of Place

Scents of Self

Smelly Blog

Sorcery of Scent 

Sweet Diva

The Alembicated Genie 

The Candy Perfume Boy 

The Fragrant Man

The French Exit


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The Perfume Magpie

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The Sounds of Scent

The Vintage Perfume Vault
 

This Blog Really Stinks 

Undina's Looking Glass 

WAFT by Carol 

Yesterday's Perfume

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