Eiderdown Press
Musings about Perfume and Life
Kiki, Onda & Rubj
Suzanne’s Perfume Journal
Click on Links to Previous Posts, below

A Conversation on Arabie

A Package from Christos: Greek Sandals & Oud Cuir d'Arabie

A Package from Ines

A Package from Lavanya

A More Affordable Olfactionary

A Week of Wearing What I Like

Amouage Dia (pour femme)

Amouage Dia (pour homme)

Amouage Epic Woman

Amouage Gold

Amouage Interlude Man

Amouage Jubilation 25 

Amouage Lyric Woman

Amouage Memoir Woman

Amouage Opus I

Amouage Opus III

Amouage Opus IV

Amouage Opus V

Amouage Opus VI

Amouage Tribute

Amouage Ubar

Annick Goutal Ambre Fetiche

Annick Goutal Encens Flamboyant

Annick Goutal Heure Exquise

Annick Goutal Petite Cherie

Annick Goutal Sables

Annick Goutal Vanille Charnelle

April Aromatics Calling All Angels

April Aromatics Bohemian Spice

April Aromatics Jasmina 

April Aromatics Nectar of Love

April Aromatics Rose L'Orange

Aroma M Geisha Green

Aroma M Geisha Rouge

Arquiste Anima Dulcis

Arquiste Boutonniere no. 7

At the Moment (Chanel 22 & Marshall Crenshaw)

At the Moment (Contemplating Change & Habit Rouge)

At the Moment (Marron Chic & Paris)

At the Moment (More Midsummer Delights/Epic/Geisha Noire)

At the Moment (Saki & Lubin Idole edt)

At the Moment (Secret de Suzanne /D'Orsay L'Intrigante)

At the Moment (Spring Pretties/Un Air de Samsara)

At the Moment (Summery Things...Love Coconut)

At the Moment (Vera Wang & Fireman's Fair novel)

Ava Luxe Café Noir

Beatnik Emptiness Incense

Best of 2009

Bond No. 9 Andy Warhol Silver Factory

Bond No. 9 Brooklyn

Bond No. 9 Little Italy

Bond No. 9 New Haarlem

Bottega Veneta eau de parfum

Breath of God

Byredo Green

By Kilian Amber Oud

By Kilian Forbidden Games and In the City of Sin

Calyx by Prescriptives

Canturi by Stefano Canturi

Capote, Truman & Evening in Paris

Carner Barcelona D600

Caron Aimez-Moi

Caron French Cancan

Caron Parfum Sacre

Caron Tabac Blond

Caron Tubereuse

Caron Yatagan

Cartier II L'Heure Convoitee

Cartier IV L'Heure Fougueuse

Chanel 31 Rue Cambon

Chanel Bel Respiro

Chanel Chance

Chanel Coco

Chanel Coromandel

Chanel Cuir de Russie

Chanel Egoiste

Chanel No. 5 (vintage)

Chanel No. 22

Chantecaille Petales

Chantilly Dusting Powder

Clive Christian C for Women

Comme des Garcons Daphne

Comme des Garcons LUXE Champaca

Comme des Garcons Series 7 Sweet Nomad Tea

Costes by Costes

Coty Ambre Antique

Coty Chypre

Coty Paris

Creature by Kerosene

Creed Acqua Fiorentina

Creed Fleurs de Bulgarie

Creed Virgin Island Water

DSH Perfumes Bancha Extreme

DSH Perfumes Quinacridone Violet 

DSH Perfumes Vert pour Madame


Devilscent Project

Dior Diorissimo (vintage)

Donna Karan Black Cashmere

EnVoyage Vents Ardents

EnVoyage Zelda

Estee Lauder Private Collection

Estee Lauder Private Collection Jasmine White Moss

Etat Libre d'Orange Rien, Rossy de Palma & Noel au Balcon

Faberge Woodhue Cologne

Favorite Fall Fragrances

Fendi Uomo

Fragrances for Sweden

Frapin 1697 Absolu Parfum

Frederic Malle Angeliques Sous La Pluie

Frederic Malle Bigarade Concentrée

Frederic Malle Carnal Flower

Frederic Malle Dans Tes Bras

Frederic Malle Geranium Pour Monsieur

Frederic Malle Iris Poudre

Frederic Malle Le Parfum de Therese

Frederic Malle Lipstick Rose

Frederic Malle Noir Epices

Frederic Malle Portrait of a Lady

Frederic Malle Une Fleur de Cassie

Frederic Malle Une Rose

Geoffrey Beene Grey Flannel

Ghosts of Perfumes Past, Present & Future

Gone Fishin'

Gucci Eau de Parfum

Gucci L'Arte di Gucci

Gucci Pour Homme

Guerlain Angelique Noire

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Lys Soleia

Guerlain Aroma Allegoria Exaltant

Guerlain Attrape Coeur

Guerlain Chamade

Guerlain Encens Mythique d'Orient

Guerlain Jicky

Guerlain Mayotte

Guerlain Parure

Guerlain Samsara Parfum

Guerlain Un Air de Samsara

Guerlain Vega

Guerlain Vetiver (vintage)

Guy Laroche J'ai Ose (vintage)

Happy Solstice

Hermes 24, Faubourg

Hermes Caleche (vintage)

Hermes Eau des Merveilles

Hermes Hiris

Hermes Iris Ukiyoe

Hermes Jour d'Hermes

Hermes L'Ambre des Merveilles

Histoires de Parfums 1740

Histoires de Parfums 1828

Histoires de Parfums Blanc Violette

Histoires de Parfums Vert Pivoine

Hometown Portrait, State College, PA

Honore des Pres Vamp a NY

House of Matriarch Carmine

How I Store Decants

Il Profumo Cannabis

In Memory (w/mention of Lanvin Arpege)

Jacomo #02

Jacomo #09 (Link to my review in Sniffapalooza Magazine)

Jean Desprez Bal a Versailles

Jean Patou Joy

Jean Patou 1000

Jo Malone Saffron Cologne Intense

Jo Malone Sweet Milk Cologne 

Juliet by Juliet Stewart

Kai Eau de Parfum

Kenzo Jungle l’Elephant

Kenzo Summer

Lancome Magie Noire (vintage) 

Lanvin Via Lanvin (vintage) 

L'Artisan Parfumeur Nuit de Tubereuse

L'Artisan Parfumeur Orchidee Blanche 

L’Artisan Parfumeur Passage d’Enfer

L'Artisan Parfumeur Seville a l'Aube

L’Artisan Parfumeur Tea for Two

L’Artisan Parfumeur Traversee du Bosphore

La Via del Profumo Balsamo Della Mecca

La Via del Profumo Hindu Kush

La Via del Profumo Milano Caffe

La Via del Profumo Oud Caravan Project

La Via del Profumo Sharif

La Via del Profumo Tawaf

Le Labo Gaiac 10

Le Labo Iris 39

Le Labo Patchouli 24

Le Labo Poivre 23

Little Lists

Lorenzo Villoresi Yerbamate

M. Micallef Vanille Orient

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Absolue Pour le Soir

Maison Martin Margiela (untitled) eau de parfum

Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Eau des Iles

Message In A Bottle 

Michael Storer Winter Star

Miller Harris L'Air de Rien


Missoni (original) by Missoni

Molinard Habanita

Mona Di Orio Nuit Noire

Mona Di Orio Oud

Mona Di Orio Vanille

Montale Black Aoud

Montale Boise Vanille

Montale Intense Tiare

Montale Patchouli Leaves

Montale Red Aoud

More Roses (rose cookie recipe)

My Heart Has Skipped a Beat (summer smells)

My Perfumes Have Theme Songs

Nasomatto China White

Neila Vermeire Creations Bombay Bling

Nina Ricci L'Air du Temps

Nez a Nez Ambre a Sade

Northern Exposure "A Dash of Chanel No. 5"

Odin 04 Petrana (Link to my review in Sniffapalooza Magazine)

Olivier Durbano Black Tourmaline

Omar Sharif Pour Femme

Oriscent Pure Oud Oils

Ormonde Jayne Frangipani

Ormonde Jayne Ormonde Woman

Oscar de la Renta Oscar for Men

O Tannenbaum Joint Blog Project

Parfum d'Empire Azemour

Parfum d'Empire Cuir Ottoman

Parfum d'Empire Equistrius

Parfum d'Empire Musc Tonkin

Parfum d'Empire 3 Fleurs

Parfumerie Generale Aomassai

Parfumerie Generale Bois de Copaiba

Parfumerie Generale Indochine

Parfumerie Generale Un Crime Exotique

Parfums de Nicolai Sacrebleu

Parfums DelRae Amoureuse

Parfums Karl Lagerfeld Sun Moon Stars

Parfums MDCI Chypre Palatin

Parfums Retro Grand Cuir

Paris, je t'aime

Pascal Morabito Or Black 

Perfume Quotes - The English Patient

Prada Infusion d'Iris Absolue

Pretty Perfume Bottles 

Prince Matchabelli Aviance Cologne (vintage) 

Profumum Roma Acqua Viva

Profumum Roma D'Ambrosia

Puredistance I

Puredistance Antonia

Puredistance BLACK

Puredistance M

Puredistance Opardu

Puredistance WHITE

Ramon Monegal Cherry Musk

Ramon Monegal Cuirelle

Ramon Monegal Pure Mariposa

Recipe for Socca

Regina Harris Amber Vanilla Perfume Oil

Regina Harris Frankincense-Myrrh-Rose Maroc Perfume Oil

Robert Piguet Fracas

Robert Piguet Visa

Rochas Mystere 

Rome Vacation Photos

Sammarco Perfumes Bond-T

San Francisco Holiday

Sarah Horowitz Parfums' Joy Comes From Within & Beauty Comes From Within

Scented Reading

Scents of the Mediterranean

Scentuous Reading: One Hundred Years of Solitude

Serge Lutens Arabie

Serge Lutens Borneo 1834

Serge Lutens Boxeuses

Serge Lutens Chêne

Serge Lutens Chergui

Serge Lutens Fille en Aiguilles

Serge Lutens Five O’Clock Au Gingembre

Serge Lutens Fumerie Turque

Serge Lutens Miel de Bois

Serge Lutens Muscs Koublai Khan

Serge Lutens Tubereuse Criminelle

Serge Lutens Un Lys

Serge Lutens Vetiver Oriental

Slumberhouse Rume

Smell Bent Florist's Fridge

Snow Days

Sonoma Scent Studio Incense Pure

Sonoma Scent Studio Jour Ensoleille

Sonoma Scent Studio Voile de Violette

Sonoma Scent Studio Winter Woods (brief mention)

SoOud Ouris Parfum Nectar

S-Perfume 100% Love {More}

Stone Harbor, NJ Vacaton pix (non-perfume related)

Strange Invisible Perfumes Lyric Rain

Sweden Is For Lovers

Swiss Arabian Nouf

T is for Taxes

Tauer Perfumes: Incense Extrême, Incense Rosé, Lonestar Memories, & Reverie au Jardin

Tauer Perfumes Vetiver Dance

The Amazing Adventures of Kavalier & Clay

The Bechdel Test

The Diary of a Nose, Book Review

The Different Company Jasmin de Nuit

The Intimacy of Scent

Thoughts of a Perfume Collector


Tokyo Milk Ex Libris

Unlocking an Unknown: Webber Parfum 6T

Velvet & Sweet Pea's Purrfumery Bed of Roses

Venimus Vidimus Vicimus, or How 3 Perfume Bloggers and a Husband Took Rome

Vero Profumo Kiki, Onda, and Rubj

Vero Profumo Mito

Viktoria Minya Eau de Hongrie

Viktoria Minya Hedonist

Viktor & Rolfe Flowerbomb

What I’m Lovin’ Now

Xerjoff Mamluk

YOSH Perfumes Ginger Ciao

Yves Saint Laurent Nu

THE THREE FACES OF ME  . . . Vero Profumo perfumes

I have a rather fond affection for astrology which, on the increasingly less frequent occasions that I mention this to people, usually elicits one of two reactions: either an amused chuckle or a disdainful hiss.  I don’t think I’ve ever gotten a “Yeah, me too!” reaction on this topic, which has always surprised me, considering that almost any major newspaper in the United States has a daily horoscope in it and most women’s magazines have a monthly astrology column.  I’m actually not a reader of either of those—I prefer an in-depth study of the topic—but still, if there are horoscopes taking up valuable space in our major publications (space that otherwise would be filled with advertising), then I can’t believe that I’m the only person in the world interested in it. 

Carl Jung, the famous Swiss psychiatrist, founder of analytical psychology, and believer in astrology wrote: “We are born at a given moment, in a given place, and like vintage years of wine, we have the qualities of the year and of the season in which we are born.”  His statement summarizes in a lovely and concise way my own interest in and beliefs about astrology—and it also provides a fitting description of my recent sampling of three
exquisite perfume extraits from the line of Vero Profumo, created by the Zurich-based Swiss perfumer Vero Kern.  Wearing Vero's perfumes, I feel as if I am assuming the distinctive personalities of three different women, all of whom in some way are a part of me—each one a facet of me—as if exploring my astrological sun, moon and rising signs through these fragrances.

Let me back up a bit by saying that I had not expected to love all three scents (Kiki, Onda, and Rubj).  Despite the fact that I’d read reviews of Onda describing it in reverential terms, I had a feeling that a vetiver scent would be a tricky affair at best, as I am not a huge fan of the note—I usually find it too masculine on me.  When the perfumes arrived, that feeling was confirmed…at first...for all of 24 hours.  Because after that, not only was I in love with all three scents, but I was head-over-heels in love with Onda.  It is the scent I think of now as the match to my Moon in Aquarius aspect of my horoscope—that part of my personality that is ruled by unorthodox Uranus and which adds a vivid imaginative aspect to my otherwise down-to-earth Virgo persona.

But let’s start with Kiki first, the scent Vero Kern describes as her homage to the beautiful city of Paris, where she studied perfumery.  Notes include French lavender, caramel, musk, and “exotic fruits” (not otherwise identified on Vero’s website).  Interestingly, Paris is one of the cities traditionally associated with the sign of Virgo, my sun sign, and I find Kiki quite charming and a perfect match to my sensibilities.  Kiki is the combined smell of cool, crisp lavender’d sheets in a chic hotel and the sweet sighs of caramel bliss beneath those sheets.  The scent is not so much about sex as it is about intimacy: the pleasure, contentment, and laughter of being with someone you love in a comfortable place.  I don’t smell a sexual muskiness in this scent, so much as I smell something lightly powdery and warm beneath the cool sheets, with the fruits adding just a bit of playful bite, a bit of levity to the scent.  Kiki has a wonderful sense of French élan—it is flirty, but in a sophisticated, elegant way.

Astrologist Joanna Woolfolk describes Virgo as having “self-possession, a sense of passion that is controlled by discipline.” Kiki truly expresses that odd mix of sensuality tempered by self-restraint, and what is often described as “discriminating taste.”

, on the other hand, is not so discriminating.  Onda is the kind of scent that asks in a similar fashion to the famous Beatles song, “Why don’t we do it in the road?  No one will be watching us…why don’t we do it in the road?”  Because Onda likes the tarry smell of the highway, the grass and weeds growing up around it, and the dirt where the two meet.  She will blacktop you like some witchy woman that you’re not sure you can survive, but when she’s finished, you’ll feel like she rolled you from the highway onto a bed of sweet grass and flowers.

The Vero Profumo website describes Onda as “the finest vetiver roots seasoned with sizzling, fiery notes of ginger, mace and coriander.”  The drydown on this scent is intoxicating, like an olfactory opium delivered to you after an olfactory you-know-what.  Interestingly enough, there is not what I perceive as a sexual note in this scent, but it does smell so peaty, earthy, smoky, green, and rooty that sex is what comes to mind.  Apologies to those who prefer a genteel review from me; I can’t give it to you here.

I thought I couldn’t wear Onda, and then it was all I craved.  This scent is the complete opposite of my outwardly sensible and discerning Virgo personality, but it is completely in keeping with my Aquarius moon: unconventional, highly imaginative, and somewhat perverse.  In astrology, the moon represents your inner psyche—the personality you keep hidden.  Perhaps that’s all I should say on this subject.

Finally, we have Rubj, the exotic one.  Rubj to me is like the love child of Serge Lutens A La Nuit and Frederic Malle Carnal Flower.  Her notes include sweet Moroccan orange blossom, musk, Egyptian jasmine, and (though it is not listed on the website), the unmistakable tuberose.  Rubj is the kind of scent I always lose myself to—the smell of carnal decadence and soaring transcendence existing, intertwined, in the closest thing that comes to nirvana: a great, white floral perfume.  Rubj possesses the indolic jasmine that reminds me of A La Nuit, yet it also has a bit of green menthol and uplifting tuberose that one finds in Carnal Flower.  And the orange blossom is as orange blossom should be: heady and sweet.  You would think it would be overpowering, but I find it isn’t, most likely because all of the Vero Profumo perfumes are extraits (pure parfums)—so they stay closer to the skin without the heavy boost of alcohol that one finds in a lesser concentration.

Rubj is the scent of my Cancer ascendant—my rising sign.  Cancer is ruled by the Moon, which means that the moon is very prominently placed in my horoscope, and the moon bestows heightened sensitivity and imagination to the person whose chart it touches, as well as deep emotion and kindness.  “Many Cancer Ascendants are extraordinarily gifted as writers, poets, and painters,” says Woolfolk.

I don’t consider myself gifted, nor am I exotic in any way.  Yet I think of the exotic Rubj as perfectly matched to my Cancer ascendant because it does very much encapsulate my dreamy, imaginative nature.  My family has always viewed me as someone who is lost in daydreams, oblivious to the real world.  They see that more than they see my pragmatic Virgo qualities, so having said that, I feel more certain in saying that this Rubj is very much me, too.

Or, at least, one of the three faces of me.

Vero Profumo perfumes (including samples) can be purchased directly from Vero’s website, VeroProfumo.com.

Image: photo of Kiki de Montparnasse taken by her lover, the artist Man Ray, in 1926.

Posted by Suzanne Keller, 4/8/2008.

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Australian Perfume Junkies

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Bloody Frida

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Bonkers About Perfume

Ca Fleure Bon

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From Top to Bottom - Perfume Patter

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Katie Puckrik Smells

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Notes on Shoes, Cake & Perfume

Notes From Josephine

Notes From the Ledge

Now Smell This

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Perfume Posse

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