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Guy Laroche J'ai Ose
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A Conversation on Arabie

A Package from Ines

A Package from Lavanya

A More Affordable Olfactionary

A Week of Wearing What I Like

Amouage Dia (pour femme)

Amouage Dia (pour homme)

Amouage Epic Woman

Amouage Gold

Amouage Interlude Man

Amouage Jubilation 25 

Amouage Lyric Woman

Amouage Memoir Woman

Amouage Opus I

Amouage Opus III

Amouage Opus IV

Amouage Opus V

Amouage Opus VI

Amouage Tribute

Amouage Ubar

Annick Goutal Ambre Fetiche

Annick Goutal Encens Flamboyant

Annick Goutal Heure Exquise

Annick Goutal Petite Cherie

Annick Goutal Sables

April Aromatics Calling All Angels

April Aromatics Bohemian Spice

April Aromatics Jasmina 

April Aromatics Nectar of Love

April Aromatics Rose L'Orange

Aroma M Geisha Green

Aroma M Geisha Rouge

Arquiste Boutonniere no. 7

At the Moment (Chanel 22 & Marshall Crenshaw)

At the Moment (Contemplating Change & Habit Rouge)

At the Moment (Marron Chic & Paris)

At the Moment (More Midsummer Delights/Epic/Geisha Noire)

At the Moment (Saki & Lubin Idole edt)

At the Moment (Secret de Suzanne /D'Orsay L'Intrigante)

At the Moment (Spring Pretties/Un Air de Samsara)

At the Moment (Summery Things...Love Coconut)

At the Moment (Vera Wang & Fireman's Fair novel)

Ava Luxe Café Noir

Beatnik Emptiness Incense

Best of 2009

Bond No. 9 Andy Warhol Silver Factory

Bond No. 9 Brooklyn

Bond No. 9 Little Italy

Bond No. 9 New Haarlem

Bottega Veneta eau de parfum

Breath of God

Byredo Green

By Kilian Amber Oud

Calyx by Prescriptives

Canturi by Stefano Canturi

Capote, Truman & Evening in Paris

Carner Barcelona D600

Caron Aimez-Moi

Caron French Cancan

Caron Parfum Sacre

Caron Tabac Blond

Caron Tubereuse

Caron Yatagan

Cartier II L'Heure Convoitee

Cartier IV L'Heure Fougueuse

Chanel 31 Rue Cambon

Chanel Bel Respiro

Chanel Chance

Chanel Coco

Chanel Coromandel

Chanel Cuir de Russie

Chanel Egoiste

Chanel No. 5 (vintage)

Chanel No. 22

Chantecaille Petales

Chantilly Dusting Powder

Clive Christian C for Women

Comme des Garcons Daphne

Comme des Garcons LUXE Champaca

Comme des Garcons Series 7 Sweet Nomad Tea

Costes by Costes

Coty Ambre Antique

Coty Chypre

Coty Paris

Creature by Kerosene

Creed Acqua Fiorentina

Creed Fleurs de Bulgarie

Creed Virgin Island Water

DSH Perfumes Bancha Extreme

DSH Perfumes Quinacridone Violet 

DSH Perfumes Vert pour Madame

Deneuve

Devilscent Project

Dior Diorissimo (vintage)

Donna Karan Black Cashmere

EnVoyage Vents Ardents

EnVoyage Zelda

Estee Lauder Private Collection

Estee Lauder Private Collection Jasmine White Moss

Etat Libre d'Orange Rien, Rossy de Palma & Noel au Balcon

Faberge Woodhue Cologne

Favorite Fall Fragrances

Fendi Uomo

Fragrances for Sweden

Frapin 1697 Absolu Parfum

Frederic Malle Angeliques Sous La Pluie

Frederic Malle Bigarade Concentrée

Frederic Malle Carnal Flower

Frederic Malle Geranium Pour Monsieur

Frederic Malle Iris Poudre

Frederic Malle Le Parfum de Therese

Frederic Malle Lipstick Rose

Frederic Malle Noir Epices

Frederic Malle Portrait of a Lady

Frederic Malle Une Fleur de Cassie

Frederic Malle Une Rose

Geoffrey Beene Grey Flannel

Ghosts of Perfumes Past, Present & Future

Gone Fishin'

Gucci Eau de Parfum

Gucci L'Arte di Gucci

Gucci Pour Homme

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Lys Soleia

Guerlain Aroma Allegoria Exaltant

Guerlain Attrape Coeur

Guerlain Chamade

Guerlain Jicky

Guerlain Mayotte

Guerlain Parure

Guerlain Samsara Parfum

Guerlain Un Air de Samsara

Guerlain Vega

Guerlain Vetiver (vintage)

Guy Laroche J'ai Ose (vintage)

Happy Solstice

Hermes 24, Faubourg

Hermes Caleche (vintage)

Hermes Eau des Merveilles

Hermes Hiris

Hermes Iris Ukiyoe

Hermes L'Ambre des Merveilles

Histoires de Parfums 1740

Histoires de Parfums 1828

Histoires de Parfums Blanc Violette

Histoires de Parfums Vert Pivoine

Hometown Portrait, State College, PA

Honore des Pres Vamp a NY

House of Matriarch Carmine

How I Store Decants

Il Profumo Cannabis

In Memory (w/mention of Lanvin Arpege)

Jacomo #02

Jacomo #09 (Link to my review in Sniffapalooza Magazine)

Jean Desprez Bal a Versailles

Jean Patou Joy

Jean Patou 1000

Jo Malone Sweet Milk Cologne 

Juliet by Juliet Stewart

Kai Eau de Parfum

Kenzo Jungle l’Elephant

Kenzo Summer

Lancome Magie Noire (vintage) 

Lanvin Via Lanvin (vintage) 

L'Artisan Parfumeur Nuit de Tubereuse

L'Artisan Parfumeur Orchidee Blanche 

L’Artisan Parfumeur Passage d’Enfer

L'Artisan Parfumeur Seville a l'Aube

L’Artisan Parfumeur Tea for Two

La Via del Profumo Balsamo Della Mecca

La Via del Profumo Hindu Kush

La Via del Profumo Milano Caffe

La Via del Profumo Oud Caravan Project

La Via del Profumo Sharif

La Via del Profumo Tawaf

Le Labo Gaiac 10

Le Labo Patchouli 24

Le Labo Poivre 23

Little Lists

Lorenzo Villoresi Yerbamate

M. Micallef Vanille Orient

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Absolue Pour le Soir

Maison Martin Margiela (untitled) eau de parfum

Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Eau des Iles

Message In A Bottle 

Michael Storer Winter Star

Miller Harris L'Air de Rien

Miscellany

Missoni (original) by Missoni

Molinard Habanita

Mona Di Orio Nuit Noire

Mona Di Orio Oud

Mona Di Orio Vanille

Montale Black Aoud

Montale Boise Vanille

Montale Intense Tiare

Montale Patchouli Leaves

Montale Red Aoud

More Roses (rose cookie recipe)

My Heart Has Skipped a Beat (summer smells)

My Perfumes Have Theme Songs

Nasomatto China White

Neila Vermeire Creations Bombay Bling

Nina Ricci L'Air du Temps

Nez a Nez Ambre a Sade

Northern Exposure "A Dash of Chanel No. 5"

Odin 04 Petrana (Link to my review in Sniffapalooza Magazine)

Olivier Durbano Black Tourmaline

Omar Sharif Pour Femme

Oriscent Pure Oud Oils

Ormonde Jayne Frangipani

Ormonde Jayne Ormonde Woman

Oscar de la Renta Oscar for Men

O Tannenbaum Joint Blog Project

Parfum d'Empire Azemour

Parfum d'Empire Cuir Ottoman

Parfum d'Empire Equistrius

Parfum d'Empire 3 Fleurs

Parfumerie Generale Bois de Copaiba

Parfumerie Generale Indochine

Parfumerie Generale Un Crime Exotique

Parfums de Nicolai Sacrebleu

Parfums DelRae Amoureuse

Parfums Karl Lagerfeld Sun Moon Stars

Parfums MDCI Chypre Palatin

Paris, je t'aime

Pascal Morabito Or Black 

Perfume Quotes - The English Patient

Prada Infusion d'Iris Absolue

Pretty Perfume Bottles 

Prince Matchabelli Aviance Cologne (vintage) 

Profumum Roma Acqua Viva

Profumum Roma D'Ambrosia

Puredistance I

Puredistance Antonia

Puredistance BLACK

Puredistance M

Puredistance Opardu

Ramon Monegal Cherry Musk

Recipe for Socca

Regina Harris Amber Vanilla Perfume Oil

Regina Harris Frankincense-Myrrh-Rose Maroc Perfume Oil

Robert Piguet Fracas

Robert Piguet Visa

Rochas Mystere 

Rome Vacation Photos

Sarah Horowitz Parfums' Joy Comes From Within & Beauty Comes From Within

Scented Reading

Scents of the Mediterranean

Scentuous Reading: One Hundred Years of Solitude

Serge Lutens Arabie

Serge Lutens Borneo 1834

Serge Lutens Boxeuses

Serge Lutens Chêne

Serge Lutens Chergui

Serge Lutens Fille en Aiguilles

Serge Lutens Five O’Clock Au Gingembre

Serge Lutens Fumerie Turque

Serge Lutens Miel de Bois

Serge Lutens Muscs Koublai Khan

Serge Lutens Tubereuse Criminelle

Serge Lutens Un Lys

Serge Lutens Vetiver Oriental

Slumberhouse Rume

Snow Days

Sonoma Scent Studio Incense Pure

Sonoma Scent Studio Jour Ensoleille

Sonoma Scent Studio Voile de Violette

Sonoma Scent Studio Winter Woods (brief mention)

SoOud Ouris Parfum Nectar

S-Perfume 100% Love {More}

Stone Harbor, NJ Vacaton pix (non-perfume related)

Strange Invisible Perfumes Lyric Rain

Sweden Is For Lovers

T is for Taxes

Tauer Perfumes: Incense Extrême, Incense Rosé, Lonestar Memories, & Reverie au Jardin

Tauer Perfumes Vetiver Dance

The Amazing Adventures of Kavalier & Clay

The Diary of a Nose, Book Review

The Different Company Jasmin de Nuit

The Intimacy of Scent

Thoughts of a Perfume Collector

Tightly

Tokyo Milk Ex Libris

Unlocking an Unknown: Webber Parfum 6T

Velvet & Sweet Pea's Purrfumery Bed of Roses

Venimus Vidimus Vicimus, or How 3 Perfume Bloggers and a Husband Took Rome

Vero Profumo Kiki, Onda, and Rubj

Vero Profumo Mito

Viktoria Minya Hedonist

Viktor & Rolfe Flowerbomb

What I’m Lovin’ Now

Xerjoff Mamluk

YOSH Perfumes Ginger Ciao

Yves Saint Laurent Nu


Vintage J’ai Osé from JoanElaine? Hell yeah, I Dared!

Last month when I bought a bottle of Cartier L’Heure Fougueuse, I couldn’t resist sending some decants of it to a couple blogging friends, one of them being JoanElaine of Redolent of Spices. As many of you reading here already know, JoanElaine is an absolute doll. She’s the kind of gal who makes me want to wink at her across the blogosphere and say, “Hey, sugar sweet. Wanna go steady?” Because (for those of you who don’t know her and are wondering)…Is she smart and bookish? Very. Kinda naughty? Mmhmmm. Playful and funny? Yepper. Does she share my affection for Paul Giamatti, Michael Chabon, and certain Dire Straits songs? UhHuhh, she told me she does.

A good gifter? Oh yeah, baby. Got a return package from her with samples of six vintage fragrances: Magie Noire and Climat by Lancôme; Anaïs Anaïs by Cacharel; Courrèges In Blue; and Fidji and J’ai Osé by Guy Laroche.

I’m pretty sure the only thing standing between me and JoanElaine is that French-speaking husband of hers. A guy apparently so sexy, not even Tom Hardy has a chance of dislodging him. But you know me—I’ll just say so what! and figure out a way to woo her out of his “parlez-vous-Francais” iron grip with my review of J’ai Osé. And if I fail, I can at least say “I dared!” Which is what J’ai Osé translates to in English. How’d you like that, JoanElaine? Pretty smooth, huh?

Giddy up.

Now we all know that some perfumes are veeery sexy because they’ve got those “soiled accords” goin’ on—basically, the French way of reminding a person that it’s all about the Boudoir. This they do after they’ve whispered a few ooh-la-la’s into your ear with flowers and champagne and such, because the French have a very pretty way about them—but make no mistake, sooner or later the flowers will turn indolic, or a little civet will run into the room lifting its tail, because, yes, the French will play dirty. It’s how they get you.

Then there are those other perfumes that are sexy—and this is the case with J’ai Osé—without any dirty business goin’ on. These are the perfumes that display that other French tactic of seduction, which, after much scientific scrutiny on my part, I’ve determined is this: they use a classic perfume formula—one that involves a citrusy-aldehydic top, a seamless floral middle, and a mossy-woody base—to produce a Pavlovian response in which a certain figure pops into mind. A 36-24-36, hourglass figure, accentuated by the perfect little black dress, high heels, good jewels, and topped off by a swan-like neck and a goddess’s face. Yes, it’s true—even without a civet in sight (or in sniffing range, which covers a pretty fair distance) the French will manage to get you. On days when they are too busy to soil any accords, or when they simply want to prove their sleight-of-hand mastery in the ways of seduction, they will spin out this formula (which they’ve spent years and countless acres of Grasse jasmine conditioning us with), knowing that the mere suggestion of sex placed on such a comely pedestal is, well…it’s more than you or I can take!

And that’s exactly the case with Guy Laroche J’ai Osé, a fragrance that came out in 1977 but smells like a throwback to another era, an era when grooming was an art form even here in America. True, I wasn’t around to witness that era, but if old photographs and the movies are any indication, then I think it’s not too far off the mark to say that J’ai Osé recalls those high-maintenance women of the forties and fifties who wouldn’t be caught dead in public (nor maybe even in private) without the full complement of make-up (red lipstick and enough liner to create the dark, sultry eye), the perfect coiffure, and the kind of dress that manages both to be classy and to get a man’s notice (its tailoring showing off a nipped-in waist and the flair of hip beneath that tiny waist. Or perhaps the creaminess of bare shoulders and décolletage.)

It’s a sin, really. And maybe that’s why the opening stage of J’ai Osé reminds me of vintage Lanvin My Sin—less busty and a little more refined, but still wafting the kind of citrusy, honeyed florals that put wild thoughts into your head. I can’t say that I smell peach (which is among its notes, see listing at bottom of post), but I smell jasmine as sweet and rich as honey, accompanied by a tang of lemon that makes the back of my throat water, and a touch of cinnamon that renders it lightly spicy. Try imagining smelling all of those things at once, and that’s what the opening stage of J’ai Osé is like.

 

This candied and piquant jasmine lingers a long time, but as the scent begins to dry down, the smooth, woody finish of sandalwood inserts itself and keeps J’ai Osé’s curvy but trim figure reined in. A very light powder issues from the orris, contributing to the retro, cosmetic smell of the scent—its aura of glamour and refinement. And the combination of oakmoss, amber, musk and benzoin that anchors this perfume lends it depth and a resinous quality that enforces the notion that here is a womanly perfume, full of knowledge that the young can’t yet know; with some delicious tricks up its garter belt.

 

My only criticism of vintage J’ai Osé—at least in the eau de toilette concentration—is that it doesn’t have great longevity on the skin; I find I have to keep reapplying. But, of course, that can be sexy too, like a woman bending over and swiveling her hips as she adjusts the seam of her silk stocking. Time and time again.

 

Yeah, isn’t it funny how often they need adjusting? I have no doubt the French invented those stockings; they like to play dirty, even though they call it something else. A certain je ne sais quoi”—ha! Whatever.

 

No wonder JoanElaine isn’t leavin’ her husband for Tom Hardy or me. Merde!

 

Vintage Guy Laroche J’ai Osé has top notes of aldehydes, coriander, citruses and peach; middle notes of sandalwood, patchouli, orris, jasmine and vetiver; and base notes of oakmoss, amber, musk and benzoin. My sample came, of course, from a sweetheart of a blogger from Canada. Hope she’ll forgive me for getting frisky with her in my post.

Image: Marilyn Monroe from the 1959 film comdy, Some Like It Hot.

Posted by Suzanne Keller, 4/8/2011.


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