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Guerlain Jicky
Suzanne’s Perfume Journal
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A Package from Ines

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A More Affordable Olfactionary

A Week of Wearing What I Like

Amouage Dia (pour femme)

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Amouage Epic Woman

Amouage Gold

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Amouage Jubilation 25 

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Arquiste Boutonniere no. 7

At the Moment (Chanel 22 & Marshall Crenshaw)

At the Moment (Contemplating Change & Habit Rouge)

At the Moment (Marron Chic & Paris)

At the Moment (More Midsummer Delights/Epic/Geisha Noire)

At the Moment (Saki & Lubin Idole edt)

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At the Moment (Vera Wang & Fireman's Fair novel)

Ava Luxe Café Noir

Beatnik Emptiness Incense

Best of 2009

Bond No. 9 Andy Warhol Silver Factory

Bond No. 9 Brooklyn

Bond No. 9 Little Italy

Bond No. 9 New Haarlem

Bottega Veneta eau de parfum

Breath of God

Byredo Green

By Kilian Amber Oud

Calyx by Prescriptives

Canturi by Stefano Canturi

Capote, Truman & Evening in Paris

Carner Barcelona D600

Caron Aimez-Moi

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Caron Yatagan

Cartier II L'Heure Convoitee

Cartier IV L'Heure Fougueuse

Chanel 31 Rue Cambon

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Chanel Coromandel

Chanel Cuir de Russie

Chanel Egoiste

Chanel No. 5 (vintage)

Chanel No. 22

Chantecaille Petales

Chantilly Dusting Powder

Clive Christian C for Women

Comme des Garcons Daphne

Comme des Garcons LUXE Champaca

Comme des Garcons Series 7 Sweet Nomad Tea

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Coty Ambre Antique

Coty Chypre

Coty Paris

Creature by Kerosene

Creed Acqua Fiorentina

Creed Fleurs de Bulgarie

Creed Virgin Island Water

DSH Perfumes Bancha Extreme

DSH Perfumes Quinacridone Violet 

DSH Perfumes Vert pour Madame

Deneuve

Devilscent Project

Dior Diorissimo (vintage)

Donna Karan Black Cashmere

EnVoyage Vents Ardents

EnVoyage Zelda

Estee Lauder Private Collection

Estee Lauder Private Collection Jasmine White Moss

Etat Libre d'Orange Rien, Rossy de Palma & Noel au Balcon

Faberge Woodhue Cologne

Favorite Fall Fragrances

Fendi Uomo

Fragrances for Sweden

Frapin 1697 Absolu Parfum

Frederic Malle Angeliques Sous La Pluie

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Frederic Malle Carnal Flower

Frederic Malle Geranium Pour Monsieur

Frederic Malle Iris Poudre

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Frederic Malle Une Fleur de Cassie

Frederic Malle Une Rose

Geoffrey Beene Grey Flannel

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Gone Fishin'

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Gucci Pour Homme

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Lys Soleia

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Guerlain Attrape Coeur

Guerlain Chamade

Guerlain Jicky

Guerlain Mayotte

Guerlain Parure

Guerlain Samsara Parfum

Guerlain Un Air de Samsara

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Happy Solstice

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Histoires de Parfums 1740

Histoires de Parfums 1828

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Histoires de Parfums Vert Pivoine

Hometown Portrait, State College, PA

Honore des Pres Vamp a NY

House of Matriarch Carmine

How I Store Decants

Il Profumo Cannabis

In Memory (w/mention of Lanvin Arpege)

Jacomo #02

Jacomo #09 (Link to my review in Sniffapalooza Magazine)

Jean Desprez Bal a Versailles

Jean Patou Joy

Jean Patou 1000

Jo Malone Sweet Milk Cologne 

Juliet by Juliet Stewart

Kai Eau de Parfum

Kenzo Jungle l’Elephant

Kenzo Summer

Lancome Magie Noire (vintage) 

Lanvin Via Lanvin (vintage) 

L'Artisan Parfumeur Nuit de Tubereuse

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L’Artisan Parfumeur Tea for Two

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Maison Francis Kurkdjian Absolue Pour le Soir

Maison Martin Margiela (untitled) eau de parfum

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My Heart Has Skipped a Beat (summer smells)

My Perfumes Have Theme Songs

Nasomatto China White

Neila Vermeire Creations Bombay Bling

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Northern Exposure "A Dash of Chanel No. 5"

Odin 04 Petrana (Link to my review in Sniffapalooza Magazine)

Olivier Durbano Black Tourmaline

Omar Sharif Pour Femme

Oriscent Pure Oud Oils

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Paris, je t'aime

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Perfume Quotes - The English Patient

Prada Infusion d'Iris Absolue

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Profumum Roma Acqua Viva

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Recipe for Socca

Regina Harris Amber Vanilla Perfume Oil

Regina Harris Frankincense-Myrrh-Rose Maroc Perfume Oil

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Sarah Horowitz Parfums' Joy Comes From Within & Beauty Comes From Within

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Tauer Perfumes: Incense Extrême, Incense Rosé, Lonestar Memories, & Reverie au Jardin

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The Different Company Jasmin de Nuit

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Xerjoff Mamluk

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Yves Saint Laurent Nu

Guerlain Jicky. Because it’s summer and…need I say more?

 

No, probably I don’t need to, and obviously I shouldn’t, but this is a perfume post, so certainly I will.

Because I have a suspicion that people who really, really love perfume also love something else more than other people do: s-e-x. My thinking is, if you’re the type of person who is willing to spend the time and money to hunt down samples of every form of jasmine perfume, from the tenderly sweet to the dirty lowdown, then there’s a good chance you’ll bring that same curious, eager and indulgent mindset into the bedroom. That’s what I would like to think, anyway—although I also suspect there are more than a few people out there for whom perfume is an addiction not unlike drugs or alcohol or food or gambling, that titillates the senses to a degree that it becomes somewhat of a replacement for sex. But I don’t want to think about those people. Or maybe I do.

Yes, I suppose I’d rather think of them than that other small group of people (God, I hope it’s small) who are now rolling their eyes and listing the myriad reasons they love perfume that have nothing whatsoever to do with s-e-x. I’m sure their reasons are lovely and legitimate—and no doubt on most days I share some of them—but, c’mon!  It’s summer, people!  The wanton heart of summer. Time to proudly hang your “Perfumistas Make Better Lovers” banner on the wall and go dab on some Guerlain Jicky pure parfum.

(By the way, did you know that you can watch The Harrad Experiment in its entirety—the whole one-hour-and-thirty-seven-minutes of it—on the Internet?  Google Videos, you gotta love it. I’m sure Don Johnson does, because he really did look good in 1973.)

Anyhoo, Guerlain Jicky in the parfum concentration. Truth be told, I often go for months without wearing it, because the bracing combo of lavender and rosemary is a rather daunting masculine hurdle for me to clear…until I’m actually straddling that hurdle and then I realize just how perfect and doable it really is. Oh, tender young perfumista, don’t be afraid!  True, the lavender in Jicky is quite manly: a forceful, hard (as in unyielding) note that recalls something cool and chiseled out of stone. But something wondrous happens when Jicky’s soiled and sensuous accords move in, softening the herbal astringency of the fragrance, turning what initially seemed flinty into flesh.

Civet, with its distinctive eau de derrière, puts a rakish smile on Jicky’s face (the kind of grin he makes at you when he’s about to get undressed). The vanillic Guerlinade base warms, sweetens and imparts body—not just complexity but something corporeal, the olfactory equivalent of skin, of breath. Ah, yesss!  It’s always at this juncture when I understand how Jicky’s arrangement of notes is pure genius and why the virile lavender, transformed but never fully tamed, is so crucial to the scent. Jicky evokes, in as much as a fragrance possibly can, a flesh-and-blood man. It’s like the perfume equivalent of Michaelangelo’s David: a gorgeous creature in marble, the male equivalent of Aphrodite, that from the moment you begin studying it comes to life.

Of course, the Guerlain company chose to market Jicky with the romantic story that it was named for an English girl who broke Aimé Guerlain’s heart. English lavender, English girl. Good story, smart marketing. But take one sniff and I think you’ll find yourself trying to imagine the real Jicky for whom the perfume was named (supposedly, Jicky is the nickname Aimé Guerlain gave to his nephew, Jacques). Go ahead, inhale deeply and whisper the name in your best French accent. He’s so sexy, no? Much too sexy to be English, much too chiseled to be anything but male. A bit like having your own personal version of Michaelangelo’s David on your wrist…or wherever else you might like to take him.

Guerlain Jicky pure parfum can be purchased from NeimanMarcus.com, $315 for 30 ml (1 ounce).

The official list of notes for Jicky:

Top Notes: Lavender, rosemary, and bergamot.
Heart Notes: Rose, fern harmony (aromatic notes, earthy forest note and pelargonium), and tonka bean.
Base Notes: Woody notes, vanilla, and opoponax.

Images: photo (top) of Michaelangelo's David is from randlarchery.com; photo (bottom) detailing David's hand can be found at a number of websites, photo credit unknown.

Posted by Suzanne Keller, 8/6/2009.

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