Eiderdown Press
Musings about Perfume and Life
Gucci Pour Homme
Suzanne’s Perfume Journal
Click on Links to Previous Posts, below

A Conversation on Arabie

A Package from Christos: Greek Sandals & Oud Cuir d'Arabie

A Package from Ines

A Package from Lavanya

A More Affordable Olfactionary

A Week of Wearing What I Like

Amouage Dia (pour femme)

Amouage Dia (pour homme)

Amouage Epic Woman

Amouage Gold

Amouage Interlude Man

Amouage Jubilation 25 

Amouage Lyric Woman

Amouage Memoir Woman

Amouage Opus I

Amouage Opus III

Amouage Opus IV

Amouage Opus V

Amouage Opus VI

Amouage Tribute

Amouage Ubar

Annick Goutal Ambre Fetiche

Annick Goutal Encens Flamboyant

Annick Goutal Heure Exquise

Annick Goutal Petite Cherie

Annick Goutal Sables

April Aromatics Calling All Angels

April Aromatics Bohemian Spice

April Aromatics Jasmina 

April Aromatics Nectar of Love

April Aromatics Rose L'Orange

Aroma M Geisha Green

Aroma M Geisha Rouge

Arquiste Anima Dulcis

Arquiste Boutonniere no. 7

At the Moment (Chanel 22 & Marshall Crenshaw)

At the Moment (Contemplating Change & Habit Rouge)

At the Moment (Marron Chic & Paris)

At the Moment (More Midsummer Delights/Epic/Geisha Noire)

At the Moment (Saki & Lubin Idole edt)

At the Moment (Secret de Suzanne /D'Orsay L'Intrigante)

At the Moment (Spring Pretties/Un Air de Samsara)

At the Moment (Summery Things...Love Coconut)

At the Moment (Vera Wang & Fireman's Fair novel)

Ava Luxe Café Noir

Beatnik Emptiness Incense

Best of 2009

Bond No. 9 Andy Warhol Silver Factory

Bond No. 9 Brooklyn

Bond No. 9 Little Italy

Bond No. 9 New Haarlem

Bottega Veneta eau de parfum

Breath of God

Byredo Green

By Kilian Amber Oud

Calyx by Prescriptives

Canturi by Stefano Canturi

Capote, Truman & Evening in Paris

Carner Barcelona D600

Caron Aimez-Moi

Caron French Cancan

Caron Parfum Sacre

Caron Tabac Blond

Caron Tubereuse

Caron Yatagan

Cartier II L'Heure Convoitee

Cartier IV L'Heure Fougueuse

Chanel 31 Rue Cambon

Chanel Bel Respiro

Chanel Chance

Chanel Coco

Chanel Coromandel

Chanel Cuir de Russie

Chanel Egoiste

Chanel No. 5 (vintage)

Chanel No. 22

Chantecaille Petales

Chantilly Dusting Powder

Clive Christian C for Women

Comme des Garcons Daphne

Comme des Garcons LUXE Champaca

Comme des Garcons Series 7 Sweet Nomad Tea

Costes by Costes

Coty Ambre Antique

Coty Chypre

Coty Paris

Creature by Kerosene

Creed Acqua Fiorentina

Creed Fleurs de Bulgarie

Creed Virgin Island Water

DSH Perfumes Bancha Extreme

DSH Perfumes Quinacridone Violet 

DSH Perfumes Vert pour Madame

Deneuve

Devilscent Project

Dior Diorissimo (vintage)

Donna Karan Black Cashmere

EnVoyage Vents Ardents

EnVoyage Zelda

Estee Lauder Private Collection

Estee Lauder Private Collection Jasmine White Moss

Etat Libre d'Orange Rien, Rossy de Palma & Noel au Balcon

Faberge Woodhue Cologne

Favorite Fall Fragrances

Fendi Uomo

Fragrances for Sweden

Frapin 1697 Absolu Parfum

Frederic Malle Angeliques Sous La Pluie

Frederic Malle Bigarade Concentrée

Frederic Malle Carnal Flower

Frederic Malle Geranium Pour Monsieur

Frederic Malle Iris Poudre

Frederic Malle Le Parfum de Therese

Frederic Malle Lipstick Rose

Frederic Malle Noir Epices

Frederic Malle Portrait of a Lady

Frederic Malle Une Fleur de Cassie

Frederic Malle Une Rose

Geoffrey Beene Grey Flannel

Ghosts of Perfumes Past, Present & Future

Gone Fishin'

Gucci Eau de Parfum

Gucci L'Arte di Gucci

Gucci Pour Homme

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Lys Soleia

Guerlain Aroma Allegoria Exaltant

Guerlain Attrape Coeur

Guerlain Chamade

Guerlain Jicky

Guerlain Mayotte

Guerlain Parure

Guerlain Samsara Parfum

Guerlain Un Air de Samsara

Guerlain Vega

Guerlain Vetiver (vintage)

Guy Laroche J'ai Ose (vintage)

Happy Solstice

Hermes 24, Faubourg

Hermes Caleche (vintage)

Hermes Eau des Merveilles

Hermes Hiris

Hermes Iris Ukiyoe

Hermes L'Ambre des Merveilles

Histoires de Parfums 1740

Histoires de Parfums 1828

Histoires de Parfums Blanc Violette

Histoires de Parfums Vert Pivoine

Hometown Portrait, State College, PA

Honore des Pres Vamp a NY

House of Matriarch Carmine

How I Store Decants

Il Profumo Cannabis

In Memory (w/mention of Lanvin Arpege)

Jacomo #02

Jacomo #09 (Link to my review in Sniffapalooza Magazine)

Jean Desprez Bal a Versailles

Jean Patou Joy

Jean Patou 1000

Jo Malone Saffron Cologne Intense

Jo Malone Sweet Milk Cologne 

Juliet by Juliet Stewart

Kai Eau de Parfum

Kenzo Jungle l’Elephant

Kenzo Summer

Lancome Magie Noire (vintage) 

Lanvin Via Lanvin (vintage) 

L'Artisan Parfumeur Nuit de Tubereuse

L'Artisan Parfumeur Orchidee Blanche 

L’Artisan Parfumeur Passage d’Enfer

L'Artisan Parfumeur Seville a l'Aube

L’Artisan Parfumeur Tea for Two

La Via del Profumo Balsamo Della Mecca

La Via del Profumo Hindu Kush

La Via del Profumo Milano Caffe

La Via del Profumo Oud Caravan Project

La Via del Profumo Sharif

La Via del Profumo Tawaf

Le Labo Gaiac 10

Le Labo Iris 39

Le Labo Patchouli 24

Le Labo Poivre 23

Little Lists

Lorenzo Villoresi Yerbamate

M. Micallef Vanille Orient

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Absolue Pour le Soir

Maison Martin Margiela (untitled) eau de parfum

Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Eau des Iles

Message In A Bottle 

Michael Storer Winter Star

Miller Harris L'Air de Rien

Miscellany

Missoni (original) by Missoni

Molinard Habanita

Mona Di Orio Nuit Noire

Mona Di Orio Oud

Mona Di Orio Vanille

Montale Black Aoud

Montale Boise Vanille

Montale Intense Tiare

Montale Patchouli Leaves

Montale Red Aoud

More Roses (rose cookie recipe)

My Heart Has Skipped a Beat (summer smells)

My Perfumes Have Theme Songs

Nasomatto China White

Neila Vermeire Creations Bombay Bling

Nina Ricci L'Air du Temps

Nez a Nez Ambre a Sade

Northern Exposure "A Dash of Chanel No. 5"

Odin 04 Petrana (Link to my review in Sniffapalooza Magazine)

Olivier Durbano Black Tourmaline

Omar Sharif Pour Femme

Oriscent Pure Oud Oils

Ormonde Jayne Frangipani

Ormonde Jayne Ormonde Woman

Oscar de la Renta Oscar for Men

O Tannenbaum Joint Blog Project

Parfum d'Empire Azemour

Parfum d'Empire Cuir Ottoman

Parfum d'Empire Equistrius

Parfum d'Empire 3 Fleurs

Parfumerie Generale Bois de Copaiba

Parfumerie Generale Indochine

Parfumerie Generale Un Crime Exotique

Parfums de Nicolai Sacrebleu

Parfums DelRae Amoureuse

Parfums Karl Lagerfeld Sun Moon Stars

Parfums MDCI Chypre Palatin

Parfums Retro Grand Cuir

Paris, je t'aime

Pascal Morabito Or Black 

Perfume Quotes - The English Patient

Prada Infusion d'Iris Absolue

Pretty Perfume Bottles 

Prince Matchabelli Aviance Cologne (vintage) 

Profumum Roma Acqua Viva

Profumum Roma D'Ambrosia

Puredistance I

Puredistance Antonia

Puredistance BLACK

Puredistance M

Puredistance Opardu

Ramon Monegal Cherry Musk

Recipe for Socca

Regina Harris Amber Vanilla Perfume Oil

Regina Harris Frankincense-Myrrh-Rose Maroc Perfume Oil

Robert Piguet Fracas

Robert Piguet Visa

Rochas Mystere 

Rome Vacation Photos

San Francisco Holiday

Sarah Horowitz Parfums' Joy Comes From Within & Beauty Comes From Within

Scented Reading

Scents of the Mediterranean

Scentuous Reading: One Hundred Years of Solitude

Serge Lutens Arabie

Serge Lutens Borneo 1834

Serge Lutens Boxeuses

Serge Lutens Chêne

Serge Lutens Chergui

Serge Lutens Fille en Aiguilles

Serge Lutens Five O’Clock Au Gingembre

Serge Lutens Fumerie Turque

Serge Lutens Miel de Bois

Serge Lutens Muscs Koublai Khan

Serge Lutens Tubereuse Criminelle

Serge Lutens Un Lys

Serge Lutens Vetiver Oriental

Slumberhouse Rume

Snow Days

Sonoma Scent Studio Incense Pure

Sonoma Scent Studio Jour Ensoleille

Sonoma Scent Studio Voile de Violette

Sonoma Scent Studio Winter Woods (brief mention)

SoOud Ouris Parfum Nectar

S-Perfume 100% Love {More}

Stone Harbor, NJ Vacaton pix (non-perfume related)

Strange Invisible Perfumes Lyric Rain

Sweden Is For Lovers

T is for Taxes

Tauer Perfumes: Incense Extrême, Incense Rosé, Lonestar Memories, & Reverie au Jardin

Tauer Perfumes Vetiver Dance

The Amazing Adventures of Kavalier & Clay

The Diary of a Nose, Book Review

The Different Company Jasmin de Nuit

The Intimacy of Scent

Thoughts of a Perfume Collector

Tightly

Tokyo Milk Ex Libris

Unlocking an Unknown: Webber Parfum 6T

Velvet & Sweet Pea's Purrfumery Bed of Roses

Venimus Vidimus Vicimus, or How 3 Perfume Bloggers and a Husband Took Rome

Vero Profumo Kiki, Onda, and Rubj

Vero Profumo Mito

Viktoria Minya Hedonist

Viktor & Rolfe Flowerbomb

What I’m Lovin’ Now

Xerjoff Mamluk

YOSH Perfumes Ginger Ciao

Yves Saint Laurent Nu


Gucci Pour Homme and Larry Paul: Gone but Not Forgotten

This weekend I find myself feeling exhausted. Not that I’m complaining, because the things that exhausted me were all of my own choosing—a trip to New York City last weekend to take in the Picasso exhibit at the Guggenheim; a grueling thirteen-mile run on Tuesday that I can now check off as the farthest distance I’ve ever run; and my annual hosting of the Thanksgiving meal on Thursday, which most people think of as a one-day event but which rarely is when you’re the one preparing it. Those were the highlights, and though they were all gratifying, they nevertheless have left me feeling spent. Right now, all my bone-tired body wants is the comfort of hot tea and the softness of my living room sofa. My mind seems to want to take it easy, too: it is craving familiarity and easy entertainments, and that’s precisely what I’m feeding it. A comforting masculine perfume and episodes from the more than a decade-old television series, Ally McBeal. I haven’t watched Ally McBeal since back-in-the-day, but yesterday morning, when I came in from a short run and the snowflakes were flying about and my house looked so cozy, I found myself thinking about Robert Downey Jr. and that all-too-brief season where he played Ally’s boyfriend, and in particular, an episode where he played the piano and sang Christmas songs to Ally (even though his character, Larry Paul, was not a fan of Christmas, which is really what makes those songs and that episode stand out all the more). I’m not someone who likes holiday movies, and half the time I’m not even sure I like Christmas itself, but I like romance, and meaningful messages that arrive in an off-kilter way, and men who know how to step up to the plate. And all of that happens in this episode—not just via Robert Downey Jr.’s character, but through Peter MacNicol’s character, John “the Biscuit” Cage. I won’t get into the full particulars, but if you ever find yourself wearying of Christmas, watch it (‘Tis the Season is the episode title).

The fragrance that is keeping me company on the couch as I re-watch all of season four—or what I think of as the Larry Paul seasonis the original Gucci pour Homme (now discontinued), and let me tell you, it’s sooo good, I feel like I am watching Larry Paul in smell-a-vision. This scent is the perfect balance of golden, honeyed sweetness and bone-dry woodiness, with just a touch of that musky male-armpit smell that when used deftly, as it is here, makes my toes curl over and over again. While the overall theme of this scent is often described in reviews as being woody, this is an urbane wood scent (as one would expect from a fragrance bearing the Gucci name), one that conjures up the feeling of a small fireplace that has just enough of a fire going in it to create a sense of romantic ambience rather than mitten-drying heat. I know that there are a number of men who recoil when they hear the word “sweet” connected to a scent, but if Gucci pour Homme did not possess the suave amount of nectar that it does, the resultant fragrance would not smell urbane—it would in olfactory terms resemble a campfire or a woodshop and send up an image of a very different kind of man. The gentle but distinct sweetness in this fragrance is an important component because of the way it offsets the very austere smell of papyrus wood, cedar, sandalwood and vetiver; in other words, it is a tempering influence, one that adds a layer of richness and refinement rather than air of anything confectionery. And, too, it’s what makes me say that wearing Gucci pour Homme is like watching Larry Paul on smell-a-vision: Larry Paul is smart as a whip, and has that wonderfully dry sense of humor that might more often be deployed as a weapon if Larry Paul wasn’t also sweet.

So now that I’ve gotten that bit of business out of the way, here’s a more detailed description of how Gucci pour Homme wears on my skin. It starts off with the saliva-inducing scent of what I call lemon-honey: a combo that smells piquant and goldenly sweet in equally measure and which somewhat resembles the opening salvo of three other fragrances I can think of: vintage Lanvin My Sin, Amouage Jubilation 25, and Montale Boisé Vanillé. How it differs from the top notes of those three is that there is also a brisk amount of black pepper and ginger in Gucci pour Homme’s opening accord, and they lend a raspy quality as well as an air of assertiveness, both of which establish early on that this is a masculine-leaning fragrance. Within ten minutes of wear, the scent’s very arid wood notes arrive, smelling like a combination of pencil shavings (making me again think of Larry Paul, scribbling down his lawyerly observations on a legal pad) and firewood that is ever so lightly smoky, as if it is just beginning to catch fire around its bark but hasn’t fully been engulfed in flames.

And then … when does it arrive? I can’t say for sure, because it has a peek-a-boo effect, but there is that soft-focus armpit smell that sends me round the bend and is the pièce de résistance of this fragrance, no matter how small a portion of the scent it occupies. It offers up not just a whiff of virility but speaks of closeness and intimacy, for it is the scent of a flesh-and-blood male body—a body that seems within reach rather than one admired from a distance. It’s an olfactory mirror of the hopes any of us have at the beginning of a relationship—of sexual attraction married to the promise of comfort.

Of course, Larry Paul eventually left Ally McBeal. The original Gucci pour Homme is a thing of the past, too. Maybe that says something about the elusiveness of the good things in life, but I have never had a grudge with that aspect of living (not even when I was Ally McBeal’s age). All things come and go, as they must: love and beauty, heartaches and pains, we cycle through them. Yesterday I was feeling exhausted, and this morning I was still pretty tired. But now I have written a little, and I am feeling better.


The original Gucci Pour Homme came out in 2003 (later versions came out under similar-sounding names … so similar that it can be confusing if you go searching for this scent on Ebay or some of the online perfume discounters, at least one of which still carries this scent). My review is based on a decant sent to me by a reader, the wonderful “Karen of British Columbia,” as I fondly call her.

Photo of Robert Downey Jr. and Calista Flockhart in Ally MacBeal is from tumblr.com.
Photo of Gucci Pour Homme bottle is from Fragrantica.com.


Posted by Suzanne Keller, 11/25/2012.


All I Am - A Redhead

A Perfume Blog (Blacknall Allen)

Another Perfume Blog (Natalie)


Ars Aromatica

Australian Perfume Junkies

Beauty on the Outside
 

Bloody Frida

Bois de Jasmin

Bonkers About Perfume

Ca Fleure Bon

ChickenFreak's Obsessions

EauMG

Eyeliner on a Cat

Fragrance Bouquet

From Top to Bottom - Perfume Patter

Giovanni Sammarco (artisanal perfumer) blog

Grain de Musc

I Smell Therefore I Am

Kafkaesque

Katie Puckrik Smells

Memory of Scent

Muse in Wooden Shoes 

Nathan Branch

Natural Perfumery by Salaam

Notes on Shoes, Cake & Perfume

Notes From Josephine

Notes From the Ledge

Now Smell This

Oh, True Apothecary! 

Olfactarama 

Olfactoria's Travels 

Parfumistans blogg

PereDePierre 

Perfume Posse

Perfume Shrine

Perfume-Smellin' Things

Purple Paper Planes

Redolent of Spices

Riktig Parfym: Ramblings of a Fragrant Fanatic

Scented Salamander

Scents of Place

Scents of Self

Smelly Blog

Sorcery of Scent 

Sweet Diva

The Alembicated Genie 

The Candy Perfume Boy 

The Fragrant Man

The French Exit


The Non-Blonde 

The Perfume Magpie

The Scented Hound
 

The Sounds of Scent

The Vintage Perfume Vault
 

This Blog Really Stinks 

Undina's Looking Glass 

WAFT by Carol 

Yesterday's Perfume

Web Hosting Companies