Eiderdown Press
Musings about Perfume and Life
Ghosts of Perfumes Past, Present & Future
Suzanne’s Perfume Journal
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A Conversation on Arabie

A Package from Christos: Greek Sandals & Oud Cuir d'Arabie

A Package from Ines

A Package from Lavanya

A More Affordable Olfactionary

A Week of Wearing What I Like

Amouage Dia (pour femme)

Amouage Dia (pour homme)

Amouage Epic Woman

Amouage Gold

Amouage Interlude Man

Amouage Jubilation 25 

Amouage Lyric Woman

Amouage Memoir Woman

Amouage Opus I

Amouage Opus III

Amouage Opus IV

Amouage Opus V

Amouage Opus VI

Amouage Tribute

Amouage Ubar

Annick Goutal Ambre Fetiche

Annick Goutal Encens Flamboyant

Annick Goutal Heure Exquise

Annick Goutal Petite Cherie

Annick Goutal Sables

April Aromatics Calling All Angels

April Aromatics Bohemian Spice

April Aromatics Jasmina 

April Aromatics Nectar of Love

April Aromatics Rose L'Orange

Aroma M Geisha Green

Aroma M Geisha Rouge

Arquiste Anima Dulcis

Arquiste Boutonniere no. 7

At the Moment (Chanel 22 & Marshall Crenshaw)

At the Moment (Contemplating Change & Habit Rouge)

At the Moment (Marron Chic & Paris)

At the Moment (More Midsummer Delights/Epic/Geisha Noire)

At the Moment (Saki & Lubin Idole edt)

At the Moment (Secret de Suzanne /D'Orsay L'Intrigante)

At the Moment (Spring Pretties/Un Air de Samsara)

At the Moment (Summery Things...Love Coconut)

At the Moment (Vera Wang & Fireman's Fair novel)

Ava Luxe Café Noir

Beatnik Emptiness Incense

Best of 2009

Bond No. 9 Andy Warhol Silver Factory

Bond No. 9 Brooklyn

Bond No. 9 Little Italy

Bond No. 9 New Haarlem

Bottega Veneta eau de parfum

Breath of God

Byredo Green

By Kilian Amber Oud

By Kilian Forbidden Games and In the City of Sin

Calyx by Prescriptives

Canturi by Stefano Canturi

Capote, Truman & Evening in Paris

Carner Barcelona D600

Caron Aimez-Moi

Caron French Cancan

Caron Parfum Sacre

Caron Tabac Blond

Caron Tubereuse

Caron Yatagan

Cartier II L'Heure Convoitee

Cartier IV L'Heure Fougueuse

Chanel 31 Rue Cambon

Chanel Bel Respiro

Chanel Chance

Chanel Coco

Chanel Coromandel

Chanel Cuir de Russie

Chanel Egoiste

Chanel No. 5 (vintage)

Chanel No. 22

Chantecaille Petales

Chantilly Dusting Powder

Clive Christian C for Women

Comme des Garcons Daphne

Comme des Garcons LUXE Champaca

Comme des Garcons Series 7 Sweet Nomad Tea

Costes by Costes

Coty Ambre Antique

Coty Chypre

Coty Paris

Creature by Kerosene

Creed Acqua Fiorentina

Creed Fleurs de Bulgarie

Creed Virgin Island Water

DSH Perfumes Bancha Extreme

DSH Perfumes Quinacridone Violet 

DSH Perfumes Vert pour Madame

Deneuve

Devilscent Project

Dior Diorissimo (vintage)

Donna Karan Black Cashmere

EnVoyage Vents Ardents

EnVoyage Zelda

Estee Lauder Private Collection

Estee Lauder Private Collection Jasmine White Moss

Etat Libre d'Orange Rien, Rossy de Palma & Noel au Balcon

Faberge Woodhue Cologne

Favorite Fall Fragrances

Fendi Uomo

Fragrances for Sweden

Frapin 1697 Absolu Parfum

Frederic Malle Angeliques Sous La Pluie

Frederic Malle Bigarade Concentrée

Frederic Malle Carnal Flower

Frederic Malle Dans Tes Bras

Frederic Malle Geranium Pour Monsieur

Frederic Malle Iris Poudre

Frederic Malle Le Parfum de Therese

Frederic Malle Lipstick Rose

Frederic Malle Noir Epices

Frederic Malle Portrait of a Lady

Frederic Malle Une Fleur de Cassie

Frederic Malle Une Rose

Geoffrey Beene Grey Flannel

Ghosts of Perfumes Past, Present & Future

Gone Fishin'

Gucci Eau de Parfum

Gucci L'Arte di Gucci

Gucci Pour Homme

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Lys Soleia

Guerlain Aroma Allegoria Exaltant

Guerlain Attrape Coeur

Guerlain Chamade

Guerlain Encens Mythique d'Orient

Guerlain Jicky

Guerlain Mayotte

Guerlain Parure

Guerlain Samsara Parfum

Guerlain Un Air de Samsara

Guerlain Vega

Guerlain Vetiver (vintage)

Guy Laroche J'ai Ose (vintage)

Happy Solstice

Hermes 24, Faubourg

Hermes Caleche (vintage)

Hermes Eau des Merveilles

Hermes Hiris

Hermes Iris Ukiyoe

Hermes L'Ambre des Merveilles

Histoires de Parfums 1740

Histoires de Parfums 1828

Histoires de Parfums Blanc Violette

Histoires de Parfums Vert Pivoine

Hometown Portrait, State College, PA

Honore des Pres Vamp a NY

House of Matriarch Carmine

How I Store Decants

Il Profumo Cannabis

In Memory (w/mention of Lanvin Arpege)

Jacomo #02

Jacomo #09 (Link to my review in Sniffapalooza Magazine)

Jean Desprez Bal a Versailles

Jean Patou Joy

Jean Patou 1000

Jo Malone Saffron Cologne Intense

Jo Malone Sweet Milk Cologne 

Juliet by Juliet Stewart

Kai Eau de Parfum

Kenzo Jungle l’Elephant

Kenzo Summer

Lancome Magie Noire (vintage) 

Lanvin Via Lanvin (vintage) 

L'Artisan Parfumeur Nuit de Tubereuse

L'Artisan Parfumeur Orchidee Blanche 

L’Artisan Parfumeur Passage d’Enfer

L'Artisan Parfumeur Seville a l'Aube

L’Artisan Parfumeur Tea for Two

La Via del Profumo Balsamo Della Mecca

La Via del Profumo Hindu Kush

La Via del Profumo Milano Caffe

La Via del Profumo Oud Caravan Project

La Via del Profumo Sharif

La Via del Profumo Tawaf

Le Labo Gaiac 10

Le Labo Iris 39

Le Labo Patchouli 24

Le Labo Poivre 23

Little Lists

Lorenzo Villoresi Yerbamate

M. Micallef Vanille Orient

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Absolue Pour le Soir

Maison Martin Margiela (untitled) eau de parfum

Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Eau des Iles

Message In A Bottle 

Michael Storer Winter Star

Miller Harris L'Air de Rien

Miscellany

Missoni (original) by Missoni

Molinard Habanita

Mona Di Orio Nuit Noire

Mona Di Orio Oud

Mona Di Orio Vanille

Montale Black Aoud

Montale Boise Vanille

Montale Intense Tiare

Montale Patchouli Leaves

Montale Red Aoud

More Roses (rose cookie recipe)

My Heart Has Skipped a Beat (summer smells)

My Perfumes Have Theme Songs

Nasomatto China White

Neila Vermeire Creations Bombay Bling

Nina Ricci L'Air du Temps

Nez a Nez Ambre a Sade

Northern Exposure "A Dash of Chanel No. 5"

Odin 04 Petrana (Link to my review in Sniffapalooza Magazine)

Olivier Durbano Black Tourmaline

Omar Sharif Pour Femme

Oriscent Pure Oud Oils

Ormonde Jayne Frangipani

Ormonde Jayne Ormonde Woman

Oscar de la Renta Oscar for Men

O Tannenbaum Joint Blog Project

Parfum d'Empire Azemour

Parfum d'Empire Cuir Ottoman

Parfum d'Empire Equistrius

Parfum d'Empire 3 Fleurs

Parfumerie Generale Bois de Copaiba

Parfumerie Generale Indochine

Parfumerie Generale Un Crime Exotique

Parfums de Nicolai Sacrebleu

Parfums DelRae Amoureuse

Parfums Karl Lagerfeld Sun Moon Stars

Parfums MDCI Chypre Palatin

Parfums Retro Grand Cuir

Paris, je t'aime

Pascal Morabito Or Black 

Perfume Quotes - The English Patient

Prada Infusion d'Iris Absolue

Pretty Perfume Bottles 

Prince Matchabelli Aviance Cologne (vintage) 

Profumum Roma Acqua Viva

Profumum Roma D'Ambrosia

Puredistance I

Puredistance Antonia

Puredistance BLACK

Puredistance M

Puredistance Opardu

Ramon Monegal Cherry Musk

Ramon Monegal Pure Mariposa

Recipe for Socca

Regina Harris Amber Vanilla Perfume Oil

Regina Harris Frankincense-Myrrh-Rose Maroc Perfume Oil

Robert Piguet Fracas

Robert Piguet Visa

Rochas Mystere 

Rome Vacation Photos

Sammarco Perfumes Bond-T

San Francisco Holiday

Sarah Horowitz Parfums' Joy Comes From Within & Beauty Comes From Within

Scented Reading

Scents of the Mediterranean

Scentuous Reading: One Hundred Years of Solitude

Serge Lutens Arabie

Serge Lutens Borneo 1834

Serge Lutens Boxeuses

Serge Lutens Chêne

Serge Lutens Chergui

Serge Lutens Fille en Aiguilles

Serge Lutens Five O’Clock Au Gingembre

Serge Lutens Fumerie Turque

Serge Lutens Miel de Bois

Serge Lutens Muscs Koublai Khan

Serge Lutens Tubereuse Criminelle

Serge Lutens Un Lys

Serge Lutens Vetiver Oriental

Slumberhouse Rume

Snow Days

Sonoma Scent Studio Incense Pure

Sonoma Scent Studio Jour Ensoleille

Sonoma Scent Studio Voile de Violette

Sonoma Scent Studio Winter Woods (brief mention)

SoOud Ouris Parfum Nectar

S-Perfume 100% Love {More}

Stone Harbor, NJ Vacaton pix (non-perfume related)

Strange Invisible Perfumes Lyric Rain

Sweden Is For Lovers

T is for Taxes

Tauer Perfumes: Incense Extrême, Incense Rosé, Lonestar Memories, & Reverie au Jardin

Tauer Perfumes Vetiver Dance

The Amazing Adventures of Kavalier & Clay

The Diary of a Nose, Book Review

The Different Company Jasmin de Nuit

The Intimacy of Scent

Thoughts of a Perfume Collector

Tightly

Tokyo Milk Ex Libris

Unlocking an Unknown: Webber Parfum 6T

Velvet & Sweet Pea's Purrfumery Bed of Roses

Venimus Vidimus Vicimus, or How 3 Perfume Bloggers and a Husband Took Rome

Vero Profumo Kiki, Onda, and Rubj

Vero Profumo Mito

Viktoria Minya Hedonist

Viktor & Rolfe Flowerbomb

What I’m Lovin’ Now

Xerjoff Mamluk

YOSH Perfumes Ginger Ciao

Yves Saint Laurent Nu



Ghosts of Perfumes Past, Present and Future – A Joint Blog Project

A short time ago, Natalie of Another Perfume Blog posed a question to the group of bloggers who participated in last year’s O’Tannenbaum joint blogging project. Did we want to do another Christmas post? And Undina of Undina’s Looking Glass not only said yes, but came up with a theme: Ghosts of Perfumes Past, Present and Future. I loved it—I sort of embraced that theme last year—but then I wondered: Are we to tackle this project Charles Dickens-style, whereby the three ghosts help a proverbial Scrooge to see the error of his (her or its) ways in order to change them before it’s too late? Well, my piece doesn't set out to accomplish that (and thankfully, I don’t think it’s expected to) but perhaps some insights will be gleaned along the way, and if not, it’s always fun to converse with ghosts.

The Ghost of Perfumes Past visits me often and cannot be contained in a bottle. It’s the scent of the farm I grew up on, the people who held me in their arms, and the two sisters who shared my world. When you live in a remote location—on a property where the next-door neighbors are a mile away—and when you are involved in a family enterprise that is as labor intensive as dairy farming is, your home life becomes your world. For me, the Ghost of Perfumes Past is a complex bouquet that encapsulates the collective scent of animals large and small (warm beagle pups, fuzzy kittens with hay threaded through their fur, cows and their milky smell, horses and their horsey smell, and chickens that smelled like the dust on the road they liked to scratch); the ripe dung of those animals (which wasn’t so bad in the days of small farms, when the manure was not stored in a slurry system but spread on the farm fields each day to fertilize them); the sweet green smell of hay and the swampy green smell of a pond that always had moss growing on its surface; and, finally, a lick of a certain scent I can hardly stomach today—the scent of chicken fleshwhich I came to know well, because when it came time to butcher the roasting hens my father raised in my teenage years, it was my job to pluck the feathers from their carcasses. This last scent is important to me, much as I hate it, for it is the scent of knowledge: of knowing where your sustenance actually comes from, and the true value of the life that you take—the life that gives back life to you. It’s a scent that gives you perspective, that is humbling in many respects, and that makes you see all of life as more precious and interconnected than you’d ever realized.



I would be remiss, though, if I didn’t mention that the Ghost of Perfumes Past includes actual perfumes. Almost every year from the age of six up, we received perfumes for Christmas—something that was even more important to my father than my mother, as he wanted us to be ladies and he also wanted to be the first man to give us perfume. Estee Lauder Cinnabar was the first “grown-up” scent he picked out for me, and though I can’t say I loved the perfume itself, I really and truly loved receiving it. Another one which stands out in my memory is the Helena Rubinstein Heaven Sent perfume pendant I received somewhere around the age of eight or nine. It came in a frosted glass bottle in the shape of a star (or was it a moon?) and hung on a long chain necklace. The perfume itself was very, very pretty: a light floral and powder scent that smelled impressively grown-up, yet lilting enough that it suited a young girl. I believe my mother picked out that one.

The Ghost of Perfumes Present is just as the present should be: a large entity, rather robust and all-encompassing. This ghost hangs out in a closet that was originally built to house my shoes and is partially contained in some fifty to sixty bottles that have names on them like Chanel, Hermès, Caron and Amouage, but it also spills out into drawers in almost every room of my house where there are samples upon samples of perfumes tucked away, most of them the gift of friends. In fact, if the Ghost of Perfumes Present had a nickname, it would be Mon Ami (or maybe Mon Amie, since many of these gifts are from female friends, though not all of them). This is a friendlier ghost than Casper and it smells warmer and more beautiful than anything I can describe, but let me try. Perfumes Present is the whiff of a stunning blonde blogger in Vienna whose writing is graceful and whose manners go beyond charming to welcoming, as she has a way of making everyone feel at home; it’s the scent of a redheaded gal in Croatia who is willing to meet you in Paris and spend some long days making conversation with you in English, the latter of which isn’t easy, even if she makes it sound easy (even if her English is better than yours); and it’s the quiet but deep aroma of confidences shared with you by a sweet Southern gal who, unlike you, had it rough coming up and who never complains or gives you any reason to believe that she ever felt like she got the short end of the stick—no, in fact the reason you are talking to her in the first place is because she wrote to compliment you on your post and ask if she could send you some things. The Ghost of Perfumes Present is sort of like the spirit of alcohol that evaporates from a cask of whisky as it ages and which is sweetly referred to as “the angels’ share” … it is the essence of beautiful words, curious minds, engaging interactions and acts of generosity and kindness that you never expected to encounter when you bought a bottle of perfume and decided to look up some information about it on the Internet. It is born of aroma materials, it started in a bottle, it exists in ether … and it’s the reason you collect perfumes. Because only Donatella Versace collects perfumes that stays on the shelf. The rest of us are in the presence of something larger, clearly.

The Ghost of Perfumes Future is a thin, will-o-the-wisp thing. I was never good at seeing the future, and so I can’t tell you if what I’m looking at is an emaciated phantom … one created by IFRA regulations that keep limiting perfume ingredients to the point that one of my favorite niche perfumers recently said on her blog, “Given the direction we are headed, I really wonder how many more years I will be able to do this.” If that’s the Ghost of Perfumes Future, then you and I probably won’t be doing our thing for too many more years either. But I don’t want to think about that tonight. It’s Christmas, and I’m an optimist, and I’m never sure how long I’m going to be perfume blogging anyway, so what I’ll leave you with is the Ghost of Perfumes Future as I hope I’m seeing her. She is a will-of-the-wisp—she's quite young, you see. She is the next generation of perfume lover and she has stumbled onto some perfume blogs that are so old, that were recorded via a technology that is now so behind the times, she views them the way we do vinyl records. And yet the words, the old conversations she sees in forums abandoned a long time ago, intrigue her. And somewhere in her great auntie or uncle’s closet, she remembers seeing a bunch of bottles. She finds them, lifts the lid from a now vintage bottle of Carnal Flower, inhales deeply … and so it goes on. ~

For more reading on the “Ghosts of Perfume” Christmas blogging project, please visit these blogs:

All I Am - A Redhead

Another Perfume Blog

ChickenFreak's Obsessions 

EauMG

Muse in Wooden Shoes 

Olfactoria's Travels 

Undina's Looking Glass 

Photos top of page is from Christmas 1969, which my mother labeled as Christmas with Wayne the Duck. I'm not sure why my father brought him in the house and put a Christmas ribbon around him, but it was probably to amuse us. My sister Heather is on the left, holding the doctor's kit she got from Santa; I'm the kid who is covetously holding Mrs. Beasley and at least two other dolls; and my sister Barb is at my feet, clutching her Buffy doll.  The other two photos are of me taken in the early 70s.

Photo of Helena Rubinstein Heaven Scent perfume bottle is from Fragrantica.com. 


Posted by Suzanne Keller, 12/21/2012.


All I Am - A Redhead

A Perfume Blog (Blacknall Allen)

Another Perfume Blog (Natalie)


Ars Aromatica

Australian Perfume Junkies

Beauty on the Outside
 

Bloody Frida

Bois de Jasmin

Bonkers About Perfume

Ca Fleure Bon

ChickenFreak's Obsessions

EauMG

Eyeliner on a Cat

Fragrance Bouquet

From Top to Bottom - Perfume Patter

Giovanni Sammarco (artisanal perfumer) blog

Grain de Musc

I Smell Therefore I Am

Kafkaesque

Katie Puckrik Smells

Memory of Scent

Muse in Wooden Shoes 

Nathan Branch

Natural Perfumery by Salaam

Notes on Shoes, Cake & Perfume

Notes From Josephine

Notes From the Ledge

Now Smell This

Oh, True Apothecary! 

Olfactarama 

Olfactoria's Travels 

Parfumistans blogg

PereDePierre 

Perfume Posse

Perfume Shrine

Perfume-Smellin' Things

Purple Paper Planes

Redolent of Spices

Riktig Parfym: Ramblings of a Fragrant Fanatic

Scented Salamander

Scents of Place

Scents of Self

Smelly Blog

Sorcery of Scent 

Sweet Diva

The Alembicated Genie 

The Candy Perfume Boy 

The Fragrant Man

The French Exit


The Non-Blonde 

The Perfume Magpie

The Scented Hound
 

The Sounds of Scent

The Vintage Perfume Vault
 

This Blog Really Stinks 

Undina's Looking Glass 

WAFT by Carol 

Yesterday's Perfume

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