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A Conversation on Arabie

A Package from Ines

A Package from Lavanya

A More Affordable Olfactionary

A Week of Wearing What I Like

Amouage Dia (pour femme)

Amouage Dia (pour homme)

Amouage Epic Woman

Amouage Gold

Amouage Interlude Man

Amouage Jubilation 25 

Amouage Lyric Woman

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Amouage Opus I

Amouage Opus III

Amouage Opus IV

Amouage Opus V

Amouage Opus VI

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Amouage Ubar

Annick Goutal Ambre Fetiche

Annick Goutal Encens Flamboyant

Annick Goutal Heure Exquise

Annick Goutal Petite Cherie

Annick Goutal Sables

April Aromatics Calling All Angels

April Aromatics Bohemian Spice

April Aromatics Jasmina 

April Aromatics Nectar of Love

April Aromatics Rose L'Orange

Aroma M Geisha Green

Aroma M Geisha Rouge

Arquiste Boutonniere no. 7

At the Moment (Chanel 22 & Marshall Crenshaw)

At the Moment (Contemplating Change & Habit Rouge)

At the Moment (Marron Chic & Paris)

At the Moment (More Midsummer Delights/Epic/Geisha Noire)

At the Moment (Saki & Lubin Idole edt)

At the Moment (Secret de Suzanne /D'Orsay L'Intrigante)

At the Moment (Spring Pretties/Un Air de Samsara)

At the Moment (Summery Things...Love Coconut)

At the Moment (Vera Wang & Fireman's Fair novel)

Ava Luxe Café Noir

Beatnik Emptiness Incense

Best of 2009

Bond No. 9 Andy Warhol Silver Factory

Bond No. 9 Brooklyn

Bond No. 9 Little Italy

Bond No. 9 New Haarlem

Bottega Veneta eau de parfum

Breath of God

Byredo Green

By Kilian Amber Oud

Calyx by Prescriptives

Canturi by Stefano Canturi

Capote, Truman & Evening in Paris

Carner Barcelona D600

Caron Aimez-Moi

Caron French Cancan

Caron Parfum Sacre

Caron Tabac Blond

Caron Tubereuse

Caron Yatagan

Cartier II L'Heure Convoitee

Cartier IV L'Heure Fougueuse

Chanel 31 Rue Cambon

Chanel Bel Respiro

Chanel Chance

Chanel Coco

Chanel Coromandel

Chanel Cuir de Russie

Chanel Egoiste

Chanel No. 5 (vintage)

Chanel No. 22

Chantecaille Petales

Chantilly Dusting Powder

Clive Christian C for Women

Comme des Garcons Daphne

Comme des Garcons LUXE Champaca

Comme des Garcons Series 7 Sweet Nomad Tea

Costes by Costes

Coty Ambre Antique

Coty Chypre

Coty Paris

Creature by Kerosene

Creed Acqua Fiorentina

Creed Fleurs de Bulgarie

Creed Virgin Island Water

DSH Perfumes Bancha Extreme

DSH Perfumes Quinacridone Violet 

DSH Perfumes Vert pour Madame

Deneuve

Devilscent Project

Dior Diorissimo (vintage)

Donna Karan Black Cashmere

EnVoyage Vents Ardents

EnVoyage Zelda

Estee Lauder Private Collection

Estee Lauder Private Collection Jasmine White Moss

Etat Libre d'Orange Rien, Rossy de Palma & Noel au Balcon

Faberge Woodhue Cologne

Favorite Fall Fragrances

Fendi Uomo

Fragrances for Sweden

Frapin 1697 Absolu Parfum

Frederic Malle Angeliques Sous La Pluie

Frederic Malle Bigarade Concentrée

Frederic Malle Carnal Flower

Frederic Malle Geranium Pour Monsieur

Frederic Malle Iris Poudre

Frederic Malle Le Parfum de Therese

Frederic Malle Lipstick Rose

Frederic Malle Noir Epices

Frederic Malle Portrait of a Lady

Frederic Malle Une Fleur de Cassie

Frederic Malle Une Rose

Geoffrey Beene Grey Flannel

Ghosts of Perfumes Past, Present & Future

Gone Fishin'

Gucci Eau de Parfum

Gucci L'Arte di Gucci

Gucci Pour Homme

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Lys Soleia

Guerlain Aroma Allegoria Exaltant

Guerlain Attrape Coeur

Guerlain Chamade

Guerlain Jicky

Guerlain Mayotte

Guerlain Parure

Guerlain Samsara Parfum

Guerlain Un Air de Samsara

Guerlain Vega

Guerlain Vetiver (vintage)

Guy Laroche J'ai Ose (vintage)

Happy Solstice

Hermes 24, Faubourg

Hermes Caleche (vintage)

Hermes Eau des Merveilles

Hermes Hiris

Hermes Iris Ukiyoe

Hermes L'Ambre des Merveilles

Histoires de Parfums 1740

Histoires de Parfums 1828

Histoires de Parfums Blanc Violette

Histoires de Parfums Vert Pivoine

Hometown Portrait, State College, PA

Honore des Pres Vamp a NY

House of Matriarch Carmine

How I Store Decants

Il Profumo Cannabis

In Memory (w/mention of Lanvin Arpege)

Jacomo #02

Jacomo #09 (Link to my review in Sniffapalooza Magazine)

Jean Desprez Bal a Versailles

Jean Patou Joy

Jean Patou 1000

Jo Malone Saffron Cologne Intense

Jo Malone Sweet Milk Cologne 

Juliet by Juliet Stewart

Kai Eau de Parfum

Kenzo Jungle l’Elephant

Kenzo Summer

Lancome Magie Noire (vintage) 

Lanvin Via Lanvin (vintage) 

L'Artisan Parfumeur Nuit de Tubereuse

L'Artisan Parfumeur Orchidee Blanche 

L’Artisan Parfumeur Passage d’Enfer

L'Artisan Parfumeur Seville a l'Aube

L’Artisan Parfumeur Tea for Two

La Via del Profumo Balsamo Della Mecca

La Via del Profumo Hindu Kush

La Via del Profumo Milano Caffe

La Via del Profumo Oud Caravan Project

La Via del Profumo Sharif

La Via del Profumo Tawaf

Le Labo Gaiac 10

Le Labo Iris 39

Le Labo Patchouli 24

Le Labo Poivre 23

Little Lists

Lorenzo Villoresi Yerbamate

M. Micallef Vanille Orient

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Absolue Pour le Soir

Maison Martin Margiela (untitled) eau de parfum

Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Eau des Iles

Message In A Bottle 

Michael Storer Winter Star

Miller Harris L'Air de Rien

Miscellany

Missoni (original) by Missoni

Molinard Habanita

Mona Di Orio Nuit Noire

Mona Di Orio Oud

Mona Di Orio Vanille

Montale Black Aoud

Montale Boise Vanille

Montale Intense Tiare

Montale Patchouli Leaves

Montale Red Aoud

More Roses (rose cookie recipe)

My Heart Has Skipped a Beat (summer smells)

My Perfumes Have Theme Songs

Nasomatto China White

Neila Vermeire Creations Bombay Bling

Nina Ricci L'Air du Temps

Nez a Nez Ambre a Sade

Northern Exposure "A Dash of Chanel No. 5"

Odin 04 Petrana (Link to my review in Sniffapalooza Magazine)

Olivier Durbano Black Tourmaline

Omar Sharif Pour Femme

Oriscent Pure Oud Oils

Ormonde Jayne Frangipani

Ormonde Jayne Ormonde Woman

Oscar de la Renta Oscar for Men

O Tannenbaum Joint Blog Project

Parfum d'Empire Azemour

Parfum d'Empire Cuir Ottoman

Parfum d'Empire Equistrius

Parfum d'Empire 3 Fleurs

Parfumerie Generale Bois de Copaiba

Parfumerie Generale Indochine

Parfumerie Generale Un Crime Exotique

Parfums de Nicolai Sacrebleu

Parfums DelRae Amoureuse

Parfums Karl Lagerfeld Sun Moon Stars

Parfums MDCI Chypre Palatin

Parfums Retro Grand Cuir

Paris, je t'aime

Pascal Morabito Or Black 

Perfume Quotes - The English Patient

Prada Infusion d'Iris Absolue

Pretty Perfume Bottles 

Prince Matchabelli Aviance Cologne (vintage) 

Profumum Roma Acqua Viva

Profumum Roma D'Ambrosia

Puredistance I

Puredistance Antonia

Puredistance BLACK

Puredistance M

Puredistance Opardu

Ramon Monegal Cherry Musk

Recipe for Socca

Regina Harris Amber Vanilla Perfume Oil

Regina Harris Frankincense-Myrrh-Rose Maroc Perfume Oil

Robert Piguet Fracas

Robert Piguet Visa

Rochas Mystere 

Rome Vacation Photos

San Francisco Holiday

Sarah Horowitz Parfums' Joy Comes From Within & Beauty Comes From Within

Scented Reading

Scents of the Mediterranean

Scentuous Reading: One Hundred Years of Solitude

Serge Lutens Arabie

Serge Lutens Borneo 1834

Serge Lutens Boxeuses

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Serge Lutens Chergui

Serge Lutens Fille en Aiguilles

Serge Lutens Five O’Clock Au Gingembre

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Serge Lutens Muscs Koublai Khan

Serge Lutens Tubereuse Criminelle

Serge Lutens Un Lys

Serge Lutens Vetiver Oriental

Slumberhouse Rume

Snow Days

Sonoma Scent Studio Incense Pure

Sonoma Scent Studio Jour Ensoleille

Sonoma Scent Studio Voile de Violette

Sonoma Scent Studio Winter Woods (brief mention)

SoOud Ouris Parfum Nectar

S-Perfume 100% Love {More}

Stone Harbor, NJ Vacaton pix (non-perfume related)

Strange Invisible Perfumes Lyric Rain

Sweden Is For Lovers

T is for Taxes

Tauer Perfumes: Incense Extrême, Incense Rosé, Lonestar Memories, & Reverie au Jardin

Tauer Perfumes Vetiver Dance

The Amazing Adventures of Kavalier & Clay

The Diary of a Nose, Book Review

The Different Company Jasmin de Nuit

The Intimacy of Scent

Thoughts of a Perfume Collector

Tightly

Tokyo Milk Ex Libris

Unlocking an Unknown: Webber Parfum 6T

Velvet & Sweet Pea's Purrfumery Bed of Roses

Venimus Vidimus Vicimus, or How 3 Perfume Bloggers and a Husband Took Rome

Vero Profumo Kiki, Onda, and Rubj

Vero Profumo Mito

Viktoria Minya Hedonist

Viktor & Rolfe Flowerbomb

What I’m Lovin’ Now

Xerjoff Mamluk

YOSH Perfumes Ginger Ciao

Yves Saint Laurent Nu

Comme des Garçons Daphne: Smashingly Exuberant

One of the hardest things about getting older is that you don’t feel any different than you did when you were young, but circumstances have changed such that you can’t go back and resume the life you once had: certain things are gone, and all you can do is remember them and be grateful that you got to experience them when you were young. A few years ago at my college reunion, I spent the day with my roommate and her husband (he was one of my close college friends, too) and we somewhat stunned my husband, who is of a very intellectual bent, by admitting that the thing we missed most about college was dancing. Well, actually only Beth and I missed dancing—her husband, not so much; in fact, he was laughing rather incredulously too, asking how dancing could have been the highlight of our academic years. However, he was very much with us in those days, so in reply, Beth and I shouted one word, broken up into two distinct syllables, that we knew he would understand. “Sick-ness!” we yelled in unison, and pretended to hurl beer bottles at a wall.

“Sick-ness!” was the rebel yell heard at Kappa Delta Rho fraternity late on a Friday or Saturday night, followed by the crashing of empty beer bottles that lasted into the wee hours of the next morning. Beth and I never participated in this ritual—we used to complain that it was infantile and tried to avoid it as often as we could, which wasn’t often, since we were dating fraternity brothers who were also roommates, and this meant that if we wanted to sleep with our boyfriends (which is partially what weekends were for) only one couple would get to slink off to Beth’s and my quiet dorm across campus, while the other had to spend the night listening to the ear-splitting sound of breaking glass in the hall and hope that the coast would be clear when we had to leave the room to use the bathroom. I can remember a number of occasions when I just couldn’t wait any longer, and so I would try to steal into the hall quietly, but Andy, the hulking football player who invented “Sick-ness!”, would often see me and, with a crazy-ass look on his face, shout “Su-zy!” at the top of his lungs, followed by “Say it, Suzy. C’mon, say it!” And so I would shout “Sick-ness!” as loud as I could while practically leaping into the bathroom, knowing that a second later, as a volley of beer bottles hit the wall, I would be forgotten and left in (relative) peace.

It would be a stretch to say I have fond memories of this particular ritual, and yet it is tied to memories of all the things I did love during my years at college, and for several years beyond it, too: dancing my cares away with my best friends, at least two nights out of every week; being with people in the easiest way possible for hours on end; and not having much of a sense of time or deadlines, except as they pertained to classes (and I did manage to graduate cum laude, hold down a campus job, and run on the cross-country team, so it’s not like I blew things off, but somehow time didn’t have the pressing urgency it would acquire later). Aside from the people themselves who made college special, dancing is the thing I remember most—and I don’t feel foolish for loving it or missing it or saying that it was the best part of college, because to me, dancing is a very pure statement of happiness, of joy in living. I don’t think a person can dance without feeling some sense of joy, and most of the time, one is not dancing alone, so to my way of thinking, dancing is also a statement about enjoying the company one is in and it produces a “double happiness” that goes beyond the Chinese concept of the term, to include more than the notion of a man and woman walking hand-in-hand together through life. Maybe that is why I’ve hung onto a tiny card I received from Beth when I was in her wedding, just after graduation, and which features a drawing of an elaborate cake festooned with bluebirds and a carousel. “The cake’s for you because you’re my party girl,” she wrote on the inside. “I’ve probably danced with you at parties more often than with anyone else I’ve ever known.”

This past week fall arrived in the northern hemisphere, and with it the memories of college and dancing and even my post-college years, when I was living in a rural town in New York State but still went out dancing every Friday night after work, at a watering hole where revelers of every age group and walk of life hung out. I decided to celebrate this week by wearing Comme des Garçons Daphne, a perfume created as collaboration between the fashion house and Daphne Guinness, artist and heir to the Guinness beer fortunes. I know little about Daphne Guinness (reading the Wikipedia article on her is as about as interested as I got, much as I love her family’s brand of stout), except that she took a hands-on role in creating this intoxicating fragrance that bears her name. Daphne is the perfume equivalent of “Sick-ness!”—and I mean that as a compliment. It smells like it was composed by throwing a bunch of perfume notes against the wall like spaghetti and seeing which ones would stick, and the end product is a perfume that smells uninhibited and heated and intoxicated with the liberties of not following any preconceived formula.

The notes for Daphne include bitter orange, incense, saffron, rose centifolia, Tunisian jasmine, tuberose, iris, patchouli, oud, amber and vanilla. It’s a rich-hippie smelling thing when it first hits the skin, and the bitter orange provides a bright burst that is a halo shining on the head of a big patchouli and wood accord. Rather quickly, Daphne becomes a very sweet oriental, but one with enough sensuality and kaleidoscopic effects that its sweetness doesn’t bother me one bit. Knocking about as it does with so many other olfactory layers, this sweetness is just one measure of the perfume’s irrepressible spirit, which becomes evident about fifteen minutes into its wear, when Daphne really goes nuts—coconuts, to be exact. It’s not listed among the notes, yet I get a distinct whiff of coconut mixing with the wood and patchouli, becoming one of its swirling facets, and when that recedes, jasmine comes forward, the kind that has a sweaty and urine-like tinge to it and, therefore, smells wonderfully sexual to me.

Tuberose, a flower that Daphne Guinness reportedly loves, is surprisingly not a stand-out note, but it adds to the sensuality of the mix and might be responsible for helping to convey the air of coconut that comes through for awhile. Likewise, most of the notes in Daphne don’t single themselves out: I can’t say that I smell oud or even incense, but I do detect a lick of saffron that is lightly leathery and latches onto the jasmine to produce this animalic effect which I call “slightly urinous” yet which is not as daunting as it sounds, as the non-perfumista probably wouldn’t even notice it. What the non-perfumista would notice is that, overall, Daphne makes a big statement—one that if it didn’t already go by the name of Daphne might just as easily be called kefi, the Greek word which refers to the kind of exuberance that cannot be contained and, so, must find an outlet. In Greece, that outlet used to involve the throwing and smashing of plates during a night out of song and dancing; my understanding is that this custom has largely been replaced by throwing flowers, instead.

If that’s true, then I guess it could be said that I have aged like the wisest of Greeks, as my days of dancing and hanging out with the bottle-throwing crowd are behind me now, but I am still expressing kefi by throwing flowers around. For that’s essentially what I’m doing when I spray on some perfume and head out my back door for a run through the crisp fall air, or engage my husband in a private boogie in our kitchen while I’m making dinner. True, it doesn’t come close to equalling the irrepressible “Sick-ness!” of my youth, but when my perfume takes the form of Daphne, it at least stirs up the memories of that time, and I get to relive those days again without the noise and shattered glass.

Comme des Garçons Daphne eau de parfum is available from LuckyScent.com, where a 50-ml bottle is currently $150. My decant came from a generous reader (and thus my shout-out to Karen from British Columbia ... thank you, lady!)

Image (top of page) is actress Melina Mercouri playing the role of Ilya in the Greek film Never on Sunday.

Bottle image of is from LuckyScent.com


Posted by Suzanne Keller, 9/24/2012

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