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Carner Barcelona D600
Suzanne’s Perfume Journal
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A Conversation on Arabie

A Package from Christos: Greek Sandals & Oud Cuir d'Arabie

A Package from Ines

A Package from Lavanya

A More Affordable Olfactionary

A Week of Wearing What I Like

Amouage Dia (pour femme)

Amouage Dia (pour homme)

Amouage Epic Woman

Amouage Gold

Amouage Interlude Man

Amouage Jubilation 25 

Amouage Lyric Woman

Amouage Memoir Woman

Amouage Opus I

Amouage Opus III

Amouage Opus IV

Amouage Opus V

Amouage Opus VI

Amouage Tribute

Amouage Ubar

Annick Goutal Ambre Fetiche

Annick Goutal Encens Flamboyant

Annick Goutal Heure Exquise

Annick Goutal Petite Cherie

Annick Goutal Sables

April Aromatics Calling All Angels

April Aromatics Bohemian Spice

April Aromatics Jasmina 

April Aromatics Nectar of Love

April Aromatics Rose L'Orange

Aroma M Geisha Green

Aroma M Geisha Rouge

Arquiste Anima Dulcis

Arquiste Boutonniere no. 7

At the Moment (Chanel 22 & Marshall Crenshaw)

At the Moment (Contemplating Change & Habit Rouge)

At the Moment (Marron Chic & Paris)

At the Moment (More Midsummer Delights/Epic/Geisha Noire)

At the Moment (Saki & Lubin Idole edt)

At the Moment (Secret de Suzanne /D'Orsay L'Intrigante)

At the Moment (Spring Pretties/Un Air de Samsara)

At the Moment (Summery Things...Love Coconut)

At the Moment (Vera Wang & Fireman's Fair novel)

Ava Luxe Café Noir

Beatnik Emptiness Incense

Best of 2009

Bond No. 9 Andy Warhol Silver Factory

Bond No. 9 Brooklyn

Bond No. 9 Little Italy

Bond No. 9 New Haarlem

Bottega Veneta eau de parfum

Breath of God

Byredo Green

By Kilian Amber Oud

By Kilian Forbidden Games and In the City of Sin

Calyx by Prescriptives

Canturi by Stefano Canturi

Capote, Truman & Evening in Paris

Carner Barcelona D600

Caron Aimez-Moi

Caron French Cancan

Caron Parfum Sacre

Caron Tabac Blond

Caron Tubereuse

Caron Yatagan

Cartier II L'Heure Convoitee

Cartier IV L'Heure Fougueuse

Chanel 31 Rue Cambon

Chanel Bel Respiro

Chanel Chance

Chanel Coco

Chanel Coromandel

Chanel Cuir de Russie

Chanel Egoiste

Chanel No. 5 (vintage)

Chanel No. 22

Chantecaille Petales

Chantilly Dusting Powder

Clive Christian C for Women

Comme des Garcons Daphne

Comme des Garcons LUXE Champaca

Comme des Garcons Series 7 Sweet Nomad Tea

Costes by Costes

Coty Ambre Antique

Coty Chypre

Coty Paris

Creature by Kerosene

Creed Acqua Fiorentina

Creed Fleurs de Bulgarie

Creed Virgin Island Water

DSH Perfumes Bancha Extreme

DSH Perfumes Quinacridone Violet 

DSH Perfumes Vert pour Madame

Deneuve

Devilscent Project

Dior Diorissimo (vintage)

Donna Karan Black Cashmere

EnVoyage Vents Ardents

EnVoyage Zelda

Estee Lauder Private Collection

Estee Lauder Private Collection Jasmine White Moss

Etat Libre d'Orange Rien, Rossy de Palma & Noel au Balcon

Faberge Woodhue Cologne

Favorite Fall Fragrances

Fendi Uomo

Fragrances for Sweden

Frapin 1697 Absolu Parfum

Frederic Malle Angeliques Sous La Pluie

Frederic Malle Bigarade Concentrée

Frederic Malle Carnal Flower

Frederic Malle Dans Tes Bras

Frederic Malle Geranium Pour Monsieur

Frederic Malle Iris Poudre

Frederic Malle Le Parfum de Therese

Frederic Malle Lipstick Rose

Frederic Malle Noir Epices

Frederic Malle Portrait of a Lady

Frederic Malle Une Fleur de Cassie

Frederic Malle Une Rose

Geoffrey Beene Grey Flannel

Ghosts of Perfumes Past, Present & Future

Gone Fishin'

Gucci Eau de Parfum

Gucci L'Arte di Gucci

Gucci Pour Homme

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Lys Soleia

Guerlain Aroma Allegoria Exaltant

Guerlain Attrape Coeur

Guerlain Chamade

Guerlain Jicky

Guerlain Mayotte

Guerlain Parure

Guerlain Samsara Parfum

Guerlain Un Air de Samsara

Guerlain Vega

Guerlain Vetiver (vintage)

Guy Laroche J'ai Ose (vintage)

Happy Solstice

Hermes 24, Faubourg

Hermes Caleche (vintage)

Hermes Eau des Merveilles

Hermes Hiris

Hermes Iris Ukiyoe

Hermes L'Ambre des Merveilles

Histoires de Parfums 1740

Histoires de Parfums 1828

Histoires de Parfums Blanc Violette

Histoires de Parfums Vert Pivoine

Hometown Portrait, State College, PA

Honore des Pres Vamp a NY

House of Matriarch Carmine

How I Store Decants

Il Profumo Cannabis

In Memory (w/mention of Lanvin Arpege)

Jacomo #02

Jacomo #09 (Link to my review in Sniffapalooza Magazine)

Jean Desprez Bal a Versailles

Jean Patou Joy

Jean Patou 1000

Jo Malone Saffron Cologne Intense

Jo Malone Sweet Milk Cologne 

Juliet by Juliet Stewart

Kai Eau de Parfum

Kenzo Jungle l’Elephant

Kenzo Summer

Lancome Magie Noire (vintage) 

Lanvin Via Lanvin (vintage) 

L'Artisan Parfumeur Nuit de Tubereuse

L'Artisan Parfumeur Orchidee Blanche 

L’Artisan Parfumeur Passage d’Enfer

L'Artisan Parfumeur Seville a l'Aube

L’Artisan Parfumeur Tea for Two

La Via del Profumo Balsamo Della Mecca

La Via del Profumo Hindu Kush

La Via del Profumo Milano Caffe

La Via del Profumo Oud Caravan Project

La Via del Profumo Sharif

La Via del Profumo Tawaf

Le Labo Gaiac 10

Le Labo Iris 39

Le Labo Patchouli 24

Le Labo Poivre 23

Little Lists

Lorenzo Villoresi Yerbamate

M. Micallef Vanille Orient

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Absolue Pour le Soir

Maison Martin Margiela (untitled) eau de parfum

Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Eau des Iles

Message In A Bottle 

Michael Storer Winter Star

Miller Harris L'Air de Rien

Miscellany

Missoni (original) by Missoni

Molinard Habanita

Mona Di Orio Nuit Noire

Mona Di Orio Oud

Mona Di Orio Vanille

Montale Black Aoud

Montale Boise Vanille

Montale Intense Tiare

Montale Patchouli Leaves

Montale Red Aoud

More Roses (rose cookie recipe)

My Heart Has Skipped a Beat (summer smells)

My Perfumes Have Theme Songs

Nasomatto China White

Neila Vermeire Creations Bombay Bling

Nina Ricci L'Air du Temps

Nez a Nez Ambre a Sade

Northern Exposure "A Dash of Chanel No. 5"

Odin 04 Petrana (Link to my review in Sniffapalooza Magazine)

Olivier Durbano Black Tourmaline

Omar Sharif Pour Femme

Oriscent Pure Oud Oils

Ormonde Jayne Frangipani

Ormonde Jayne Ormonde Woman

Oscar de la Renta Oscar for Men

O Tannenbaum Joint Blog Project

Parfum d'Empire Azemour

Parfum d'Empire Cuir Ottoman

Parfum d'Empire Equistrius

Parfum d'Empire 3 Fleurs

Parfumerie Generale Bois de Copaiba

Parfumerie Generale Indochine

Parfumerie Generale Un Crime Exotique

Parfums de Nicolai Sacrebleu

Parfums DelRae Amoureuse

Parfums Karl Lagerfeld Sun Moon Stars

Parfums MDCI Chypre Palatin

Parfums Retro Grand Cuir

Paris, je t'aime

Pascal Morabito Or Black 

Perfume Quotes - The English Patient

Prada Infusion d'Iris Absolue

Pretty Perfume Bottles 

Prince Matchabelli Aviance Cologne (vintage) 

Profumum Roma Acqua Viva

Profumum Roma D'Ambrosia

Puredistance I

Puredistance Antonia

Puredistance BLACK

Puredistance M

Puredistance Opardu

Ramon Monegal Cherry Musk

Ramon Monegal Pure Mariposa

Recipe for Socca

Regina Harris Amber Vanilla Perfume Oil

Regina Harris Frankincense-Myrrh-Rose Maroc Perfume Oil

Robert Piguet Fracas

Robert Piguet Visa

Rochas Mystere 

Rome Vacation Photos

San Francisco Holiday

Sarah Horowitz Parfums' Joy Comes From Within & Beauty Comes From Within

Scented Reading

Scents of the Mediterranean

Scentuous Reading: One Hundred Years of Solitude

Serge Lutens Arabie

Serge Lutens Borneo 1834

Serge Lutens Boxeuses

Serge Lutens Chêne

Serge Lutens Chergui

Serge Lutens Fille en Aiguilles

Serge Lutens Five O’Clock Au Gingembre

Serge Lutens Fumerie Turque

Serge Lutens Miel de Bois

Serge Lutens Muscs Koublai Khan

Serge Lutens Tubereuse Criminelle

Serge Lutens Un Lys

Serge Lutens Vetiver Oriental

Slumberhouse Rume

Snow Days

Sonoma Scent Studio Incense Pure

Sonoma Scent Studio Jour Ensoleille

Sonoma Scent Studio Voile de Violette

Sonoma Scent Studio Winter Woods (brief mention)

SoOud Ouris Parfum Nectar

S-Perfume 100% Love {More}

Stone Harbor, NJ Vacaton pix (non-perfume related)

Strange Invisible Perfumes Lyric Rain

Sweden Is For Lovers

T is for Taxes

Tauer Perfumes: Incense Extrême, Incense Rosé, Lonestar Memories, & Reverie au Jardin

Tauer Perfumes Vetiver Dance

The Amazing Adventures of Kavalier & Clay

The Diary of a Nose, Book Review

The Different Company Jasmin de Nuit

The Intimacy of Scent

Thoughts of a Perfume Collector

Tightly

Tokyo Milk Ex Libris

Unlocking an Unknown: Webber Parfum 6T

Velvet & Sweet Pea's Purrfumery Bed of Roses

Venimus Vidimus Vicimus, or How 3 Perfume Bloggers and a Husband Took Rome

Vero Profumo Kiki, Onda, and Rubj

Vero Profumo Mito

Viktoria Minya Hedonist

Viktor & Rolfe Flowerbomb

What I’m Lovin’ Now

Xerjoff Mamluk

YOSH Perfumes Ginger Ciao

Yves Saint Laurent Nu

Perfume and a Movie: Carner Barcelona D600 and Joueuse

For the past few months, I’ve been trying to catch up with the rest of the world in watching Mad Men, a series I thought I would love but which more often than not leaves me feeling depressed. Mad Men’s relationships, pretty much all of them (whether between co-workers, lovers, husbands and wives, or parents and children) have so little in the way of buoyancy about them that I always feel like the characters are drowning, and the only two people I find I myself consistently cheering for are Roger Sterling and Joan Holloway, as they genuinely seem to enjoy each other’s company, not only when they’re sleeping together but when they’re at work and even when they’re no longer lovers. I’m hoping those two don’t let me down in season five, which I’m now only starting, but with only two other characters who still interest me at this point—in addition to Roger and Joan, I’m on board with Peggy Olson and Megan Draper—I find myself needing to take a lot of breaks in between watching these episodes. For this reason, I turn to French films, though not the serious ones (not after watching Mad Men, though I’m sure when I’m finally finished, the more serious French films will appeal again).

Whether believable or not, the French film Joueuse—about a chambermaid who in mid-life becomes curiously interested, and then utterly infatuated, in learning how to play chess, and enters into a relationship of sorts with a widowed doctor who teaches her how to play the game at a tournament-level of skill—is the perfect antidote to too much Mad Men.  I know absolutely nothing of chess (my husband did try to teach me once, but I am not of the chess mindset) and yet I found this film completely enchanting in that very nonchalant way that French films of the feel-good variety manage to enchant. Of course, it helps when the chambermaid is played by an actress of silky intelligence—the ethereally lovely, Sandrine Bonnaire—and the widowed doctor is played by Kevin Kline, an actor who is like the older version of Robert Downey Jr., in that he has a facility for both comedic and serious roles, but is never more mesmerizing than when he undertakes the latter.

It also helps that the film’s scenery is idyllic. The story takes place on the island of Corsica, where Bonnaire’s character, Hélène, rides her bicycle to work each day at a seaside hotel—and because she and her husband seem to be struggling to make ends meet (he works at a ship yard and the two of them have a teenage daughter who is at that stage of resenting their blue-collar lives and its lack of cash), Hélène also cleans houses on the side, including that of the reclusive expat American, Dr. Kroger. One morning while at the hotel, Hélène is refreshing the bed linens in a room where the couple who occupy it are out on the hotel balcony, lingering over a game of chess. Glimpsing them through the filmy curtain, she is struck by the intimate nature of the scene. The woman (played by Jennifer Beals) is wearing a satiny piece of lingerie, the spaghetti strap of it falling from her shoulder, while her fingers caress the chess piece she is about to move. The man is across the table but leaning forward in anticipation, and they are talking in soft, cooing tones, absorbed in both the game and each other.

This scene sets off a craving in Hélène—for the intimacy that has gone missing in her own marriage—but for something larger than that, too, which becomes evident after she buys an electronic chessboard for her husband on his birthday and, when he refuses to play, begins sitting up late at night in her kitchen, teaching herself the game. She learns the basics but reaches the point where she’s basically butting her head up against the wall; she needs a teacher, and one day while cleaning at Dr. Kroger’s house, she spies a beautiful wood chessboard tucked away among his things, and figures she might just as well ask him. Not an easy thing to do, considering how cold and aloof he is—and suffice it to say, he’s not thrilled by the notion of teaching his housecleaner how to play. But they begin anyway, and the rest of the movie is like watching a very quiet but passionate affair unfold, where such affairs truly take place—the mind—and cerebral though it is, it changes everything: it upends the status quo, breathes new life into things that were stagnant, causes hurts along the way, and lands people somewhere other than where they thought they were going (at least metaphorically). Only here it does so without drowning anyone. In fact, it is the thing that ultimately keeps Hélène, and those who are hers, afloat and swimming towards brighter shores.

This week, I couldn’t think about what to write in regard to perfume, and then I thought about this movie and decided it was worthwhile talking about, so why not come up with a scent for Hélène? What I came up with is Carner Barcelona D600, a fragrance that has a wonderful balance of masculine and feminine elements and a lot of refreshing uplift, thanks to a generous amount of cardamom (that note always smells brightly soaring to me, and perfumey in and of itself, such that it’s hard for me to think of it as being spicy). Carner Barcelona D600 starts off with a tingly hit of black pepper, bergamot and grapefruit—it smells brisk right off the bat, like I imagine the sea air of Corsica might smell as Hélène pedals her way through the winding roads each morning as she bikes to work. A commingling of smells soon chime in—a doughy iris note mixing with the piquant and uplifting cardamom, and something lightly salty smelling—such that the fragrance increasingly reminds me of sea air, but air that is now closer to shore. The floral note of jasmine is hard to pick out, but it sweetens the mix as the woody base notes gather strength, about fifteen minutes into its wear. When they arrive, there is a spell during which D600 smells woody, refreshing, and slightly masculine leaning. It seemed essential to choose a fragrance for Hélène that had an element of the masculine about it, as she is essentially entering what I think of as a man’s world: the game of chess. Not because women don’t play it, of course, but because it does seem to be heavily dominated by men.

In the same way, though, that Hélène truly flowers as a woman by entering into this more masculine domain, D600 entertains a similar transformation. The iris note does what iris often does, becoming powdery, and when it is met by a vanilla accord, the scent becomes fluffy and sweet, but with enough vetiver woodiness that it is almost hay-like. It continues in that vein for the rest of its long wear time on the skin, with the scent’s floral tones actually coming through a bit more distinctly as D600 enters its late drydown.

Overall, D600 is a modern fragrance of breezy and gentle refreshment that doesn’t offer up much in the way of challenge, so perhaps coupling it to Hélène is naïve in that it does not speak of the thornier things she encounters along her way. But nor does Joueuse (the film's English title is Queen to Play) dwell on those things either, and some days that’s a better choice for me than Mad Men and everything vintage.

 

Carner Barcelona D600 eau de parfum has notes of black pepper, bergamot, grapefruit, cardamom, iris, jasmine, cedar, vanilla and vetiver. It can be purchased from the MiN New York boutique (online at minnewyork.com), $130 for 50-ml.

My sample came from blogging friend Ines of All I Am - A Redhead, whose own review of the fragrance can be found here.

Photo (top) of Sandrine Bonnaire in the 2009 film Joueuse (the film's English title is Queen to Play) is from movies.nytime.com.  Bottle image for Carner Barcelona D600 from Fragrantica.com.

Posted by Suzanne Keller, 9/18/2012.


All I Am - A Redhead

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Eyeliner on a Cat

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From Top to Bottom - Perfume Patter

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Now Smell This

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Riktig Parfym: Ramblings of a Fragrant Fanatic

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