Eiderdown Press
Musings about Perfume and Life
Best of 2009
Suzanne’s Perfume Journal
Click on Links to Previous Posts, below

A Conversation on Arabie

A Package from Christos: Greek Sandals & Oud Cuir d'Arabie

A Package from Ines

A Package from Lavanya

A More Affordable Olfactionary

A Week of Wearing What I Like

Amouage Dia (pour femme)

Amouage Dia (pour homme)

Amouage Epic Woman

Amouage Gold

Amouage Interlude Man

Amouage Jubilation 25 

Amouage Lyric Woman

Amouage Memoir Woman

Amouage Opus I

Amouage Opus III

Amouage Opus IV

Amouage Opus V

Amouage Opus VI

Amouage Tribute

Amouage Ubar

Annick Goutal Ambre Fetiche

Annick Goutal Encens Flamboyant

Annick Goutal Heure Exquise

Annick Goutal Petite Cherie

Annick Goutal Sables

Annick Goutal Vanille Charnelle

April Aromatics Calling All Angels

April Aromatics Bohemian Spice

April Aromatics Jasmina 

April Aromatics Nectar of Love

April Aromatics Rose L'Orange

Aroma M Geisha Green

Aroma M Geisha Rouge

Arquiste Anima Dulcis

Arquiste Boutonniere no. 7

At the Moment (Chanel 22 & Marshall Crenshaw)

At the Moment (Contemplating Change & Habit Rouge)

At the Moment (Marron Chic & Paris)

At the Moment (More Midsummer Delights/Epic/Geisha Noire)

At the Moment (Saki & Lubin Idole edt)

At the Moment (Secret de Suzanne /D'Orsay L'Intrigante)

At the Moment (Spring Pretties/Un Air de Samsara)

At the Moment (Summery Things...Love Coconut)

At the Moment (Vera Wang & Fireman's Fair novel)

Ava Luxe Café Noir

Beatnik Emptiness Incense

Best of 2009

Bond No. 9 Andy Warhol Silver Factory

Bond No. 9 Brooklyn

Bond No. 9 Little Italy

Bond No. 9 New Haarlem

Bottega Veneta eau de parfum

Breath of God

Byredo Green

By Kilian Amber Oud

By Kilian Forbidden Games and In the City of Sin

Calyx by Prescriptives

Canturi by Stefano Canturi

Capote, Truman & Evening in Paris

Carner Barcelona D600

Caron Aimez-Moi

Caron French Cancan

Caron Parfum Sacre

Caron Tabac Blond

Caron Tubereuse

Caron Yatagan

Cartier II L'Heure Convoitee

Cartier IV L'Heure Fougueuse

Chanel 31 Rue Cambon

Chanel Bel Respiro

Chanel Chance

Chanel Coco

Chanel Coromandel

Chanel Cuir de Russie

Chanel Egoiste

Chanel No. 5 (vintage)

Chanel No. 22

Chantecaille Petales

Chantilly Dusting Powder

Clive Christian C for Women

Comme des Garcons Daphne

Comme des Garcons LUXE Champaca

Comme des Garcons Series 7 Sweet Nomad Tea

Costes by Costes

Coty Ambre Antique

Coty Chypre

Coty Paris

Creature by Kerosene

Creed Acqua Fiorentina

Creed Fleurs de Bulgarie

Creed Virgin Island Water

DSH Perfumes Bancha Extreme

DSH Perfumes Quinacridone Violet 

DSH Perfumes Vert pour Madame


Devilscent Project

Dior Diorissimo (vintage)

Donna Karan Black Cashmere

EnVoyage Vents Ardents

EnVoyage Zelda

Estee Lauder Private Collection

Estee Lauder Private Collection Jasmine White Moss

Etat Libre d'Orange Rien, Rossy de Palma & Noel au Balcon

Faberge Woodhue Cologne

Favorite Fall Fragrances

Fendi Uomo

Fragrances for Sweden

Frapin 1697 Absolu Parfum

Frederic Malle Angeliques Sous La Pluie

Frederic Malle Bigarade Concentrée

Frederic Malle Carnal Flower

Frederic Malle Dans Tes Bras

Frederic Malle Geranium Pour Monsieur

Frederic Malle Iris Poudre

Frederic Malle Le Parfum de Therese

Frederic Malle Lipstick Rose

Frederic Malle Noir Epices

Frederic Malle Portrait of a Lady

Frederic Malle Une Fleur de Cassie

Frederic Malle Une Rose

Geoffrey Beene Grey Flannel

Ghosts of Perfumes Past, Present & Future

Gone Fishin'

Gucci Eau de Parfum

Gucci L'Arte di Gucci

Gucci Pour Homme

Guerlain Angelique Noire

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Lys Soleia

Guerlain Aroma Allegoria Exaltant

Guerlain Attrape Coeur

Guerlain Chamade

Guerlain Encens Mythique d'Orient

Guerlain Jicky

Guerlain Mayotte

Guerlain Parure

Guerlain Samsara Parfum

Guerlain Un Air de Samsara

Guerlain Vega

Guerlain Vetiver (vintage)

Guy Laroche J'ai Ose (vintage)

Happy Solstice

Hermes 24, Faubourg

Hermes Caleche (vintage)

Hermes Eau des Merveilles

Hermes Hiris

Hermes Iris Ukiyoe

Hermes Jour d'Hermes

Hermes L'Ambre des Merveilles

Histoires de Parfums 1740

Histoires de Parfums 1828

Histoires de Parfums Blanc Violette

Histoires de Parfums Vert Pivoine

Hometown Portrait, State College, PA

Honore des Pres Vamp a NY

House of Matriarch Carmine

How I Store Decants

Il Profumo Cannabis

In Memory (w/mention of Lanvin Arpege)

Jacomo #02

Jacomo #09 (Link to my review in Sniffapalooza Magazine)

Jean Desprez Bal a Versailles

Jean Patou Joy

Jean Patou 1000

Jo Malone Saffron Cologne Intense

Jo Malone Sweet Milk Cologne 

Juliet by Juliet Stewart

Kai Eau de Parfum

Kenzo Jungle l’Elephant

Kenzo Summer

Lancome Magie Noire (vintage) 

Lanvin Via Lanvin (vintage) 

L'Artisan Parfumeur Nuit de Tubereuse

L'Artisan Parfumeur Orchidee Blanche 

L’Artisan Parfumeur Passage d’Enfer

L'Artisan Parfumeur Seville a l'Aube

L’Artisan Parfumeur Tea for Two

L’Artisan Parfumeur Traversee du Bosphore

La Via del Profumo Balsamo Della Mecca

La Via del Profumo Hindu Kush

La Via del Profumo Milano Caffe

La Via del Profumo Oud Caravan Project

La Via del Profumo Sharif

La Via del Profumo Tawaf

Le Labo Gaiac 10

Le Labo Iris 39

Le Labo Patchouli 24

Le Labo Poivre 23

Little Lists

Lorenzo Villoresi Yerbamate

M. Micallef Vanille Orient

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Absolue Pour le Soir

Maison Martin Margiela (untitled) eau de parfum

Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Eau des Iles

Message In A Bottle 

Michael Storer Winter Star

Miller Harris L'Air de Rien


Missoni (original) by Missoni

Molinard Habanita

Mona Di Orio Nuit Noire

Mona Di Orio Oud

Mona Di Orio Vanille

Montale Black Aoud

Montale Boise Vanille

Montale Intense Tiare

Montale Patchouli Leaves

Montale Red Aoud

More Roses (rose cookie recipe)

My Heart Has Skipped a Beat (summer smells)

My Perfumes Have Theme Songs

Nasomatto China White

Neila Vermeire Creations Bombay Bling

Nina Ricci L'Air du Temps

Nez a Nez Ambre a Sade

Northern Exposure "A Dash of Chanel No. 5"

Odin 04 Petrana (Link to my review in Sniffapalooza Magazine)

Olivier Durbano Black Tourmaline

Omar Sharif Pour Femme

Oriscent Pure Oud Oils

Ormonde Jayne Frangipani

Ormonde Jayne Ormonde Woman

Oscar de la Renta Oscar for Men

O Tannenbaum Joint Blog Project

Parfum d'Empire Azemour

Parfum d'Empire Cuir Ottoman

Parfum d'Empire Equistrius

Parfum d'Empire Musc Tonkin

Parfum d'Empire 3 Fleurs

Parfumerie Generale Aomassai

Parfumerie Generale Bois de Copaiba

Parfumerie Generale Indochine

Parfumerie Generale Un Crime Exotique

Parfums de Nicolai Sacrebleu

Parfums DelRae Amoureuse

Parfums Karl Lagerfeld Sun Moon Stars

Parfums MDCI Chypre Palatin

Parfums Retro Grand Cuir

Paris, je t'aime

Pascal Morabito Or Black 

Perfume Quotes - The English Patient

Prada Infusion d'Iris Absolue

Pretty Perfume Bottles 

Prince Matchabelli Aviance Cologne (vintage) 

Profumum Roma Acqua Viva

Profumum Roma D'Ambrosia

Puredistance I

Puredistance Antonia

Puredistance BLACK

Puredistance M

Puredistance Opardu

Puredistance WHITE

Ramon Monegal Cherry Musk

Ramon Monegal Cuirelle

Ramon Monegal Pure Mariposa

Recipe for Socca

Regina Harris Amber Vanilla Perfume Oil

Regina Harris Frankincense-Myrrh-Rose Maroc Perfume Oil

Robert Piguet Fracas

Robert Piguet Visa

Rochas Mystere 

Rome Vacation Photos

Sammarco Perfumes Bond-T

San Francisco Holiday

Sarah Horowitz Parfums' Joy Comes From Within & Beauty Comes From Within

Scented Reading

Scents of the Mediterranean

Scentuous Reading: One Hundred Years of Solitude

Serge Lutens Arabie

Serge Lutens Borneo 1834

Serge Lutens Boxeuses

Serge Lutens Chêne

Serge Lutens Chergui

Serge Lutens Fille en Aiguilles

Serge Lutens Five O’Clock Au Gingembre

Serge Lutens Fumerie Turque

Serge Lutens Miel de Bois

Serge Lutens Muscs Koublai Khan

Serge Lutens Tubereuse Criminelle

Serge Lutens Un Lys

Serge Lutens Vetiver Oriental

Slumberhouse Rume

Smell Bent Florist's Fridge

Snow Days

Sonoma Scent Studio Incense Pure

Sonoma Scent Studio Jour Ensoleille

Sonoma Scent Studio Voile de Violette

Sonoma Scent Studio Winter Woods (brief mention)

SoOud Ouris Parfum Nectar

S-Perfume 100% Love {More}

Stone Harbor, NJ Vacaton pix (non-perfume related)

Strange Invisible Perfumes Lyric Rain

Sweden Is For Lovers

Swiss Arabian Nouf

T is for Taxes

Tauer Perfumes: Incense Extrême, Incense Rosé, Lonestar Memories, & Reverie au Jardin

Tauer Perfumes Vetiver Dance

The Amazing Adventures of Kavalier & Clay

The Bechdel Test

The Diary of a Nose, Book Review

The Different Company Jasmin de Nuit

The Intimacy of Scent

Thoughts of a Perfume Collector


Tokyo Milk Ex Libris

Unlocking an Unknown: Webber Parfum 6T

Velvet & Sweet Pea's Purrfumery Bed of Roses

Venimus Vidimus Vicimus, or How 3 Perfume Bloggers and a Husband Took Rome

Vero Profumo Kiki, Onda, and Rubj

Vero Profumo Mito

Viktoria Minya Eau de Hongrie

Viktoria Minya Hedonist

Viktor & Rolfe Flowerbomb

What I’m Lovin’ Now

Xerjoff Mamluk

YOSH Perfumes Ginger Ciao

Yves Saint Laurent Nu


I thought it would be an easy thing—compiling a list of the Best of 2009 in terms of perfumes—but, really, it’s not. I thought it would be easy because this year (thanks to a lovely woman who played the part of my glamorous, perfume-fairy godmother) I actually got to sniff a lot of new releases. Yet looking back over some of the new fragrances I tried, I realize I am quite the nitpicky and narrow-minded Goldilocks when it comes to perfume sniffage. Either that or a bit of a perfume contrarian, because I could give you a laundry list of the ones that have garnered many fans within the online perfume community but that weren’t up to snuff for me...

·         Acqua di Parma Magnolia Nobile?  A tenaciously tedious lemon note ruined this one, for which I had high hopes, being a white-floral lover.

·         Le Labo Oud 27 was tedious too (dirty, but in a very one-dimensional way—like sweat that has nowhere to go but the sweatshop).

·         Ineke Field Notes From Paris wasn’t tedious, but so harsh, loud and discordant that I couldn’t wait to scrub it off my wrists, and neither could my husband (“Oh honey, that’s just awful,” were his exact words).


...but I’ll stop here, because my point isn’t to bash so much as it is to say that, while I did try a fair number of new fragrances this year, only a small few made my Best of 2009 list. And so what you will find here is a list that—in order to have enough items to make it a proper list—includes fragrances that may or may not be nascent to 2009, but that occupied my attention this past year nonetheless.


Estee Lauder Private Collection Jasmine White Moss parfum. What a surprise for me: I really wasn’t expecting to love Estee Lauder’s answer to the new chypre (the non-oakmoss chypre, in other words), but this beauty is complex, with a classic, pyramidal structure that allows the fragrance to unfold during its long wear on your skin. It is an olfactory meander through an exquisite garden, and at each stage of its wear, there are subtle changes in the terrain.


Going green. I had a craving for green perfumes in 2009 that I believe was directly influenced by my environment: an extremely cool and rainy spring, summer and fall in Pennsylania that proved inclement to the wearing of sunny perfumes and begged for something more congruous.  The ones I wore most?  Chanel Bel Respiro, so breathy and tender in its suggestion of a fine spring lawn; the original Estee Lauder Private Collection, unrepentantly verdant with its obscene amount of galbanum; and Etro Palais Jamais, a leathery, arid scent that smells like green wood heaped on a campfire.


Amouage Ubar. Decadent and exotic, this fragrance is without a doubt my favorite fragrance of 2009. In terms of complexity and materials, it resembles an Oriental carpet: there is a lily-of-the-valley note that entwines around lemon in the beginning, and then peaks its darling head in and out of the richest tapestry of rose, jasmine, sandalwood, vanilla, civet and moss that has ever been spun. Ubar is the kind of fragrance that many people find “too much, too big!” but that suits this Goldilocks just right.


Vanilla madness!  When L’Artisan Parfumeur announced the launch of its 2009 vanilla scent, Havanna Vanille, you could almost hear the sound of thundering feet through the Internet as swarms of perfume lovers raced to the company’s website in anticipation of its release. (The perfect non-foody vanilla scent is not easy to find!) As I waited excitedly along with everyone else, I suddenly remembered that I had a sample of Montale Boisé Vanillé…and in very short order I had a full bottle of Montale Boisé Vanillé. Craving satisfied, I have more or less forgotten about Havanna Vanille. Montale Boisé Vanillé is an androgynous beauty that is elegant, seductive, smoky and resinous.


Juliet by Juliet Stewart. If you’re a regular reader here, then you know that I rarely review quiet scents. In general, I crave the fussy kinds of things that old ladies and perhaps even drag queens might wear. But occasionally my heart is captivated by a delicate, veil-like scent, and this year that scent was Juliet. You know what I love about it most?  It smells like it was constructed with quality, natural aroma-materials. The citrus and herbal top notes are light and effervescently volatile—meaning, they don’t last forever, they burn off the way natural citrus notes should burn off. (Thank you!  I don’t want to be dogged by a synthetic lemon note for what seems like hours on end.) And Juliet’s honeysuckle-like jasmine, creamy vanilla and soft amber base is like the sheen on a pearl: softly, sweetly radiant.


Fruit, glorious fruit!  In the perfume-lovin’ community, fruity fragrances get a bad rap, so why am I lovin’ on them here?  Maybe it is the contrarian in me, but more likely it's because I have reached a stage in my perfume exploration where I am finally able to lift my nose out of the white florals in which it is usually ensconced, and cast a curious look around for something new to smell. The sangria-like fermentation of pear, peach and mandarin in Robert Piguet Visa is a welcome addition to that scent’s florals and leather. The piquant fruits of Dawn Spencer Hurwitz’s Quinacridone Violet make my mouth water the way a sourball candy does. And though I once remarked to a friend that Creed Acqua Fiorentina, with its greengage plum note, was “so bad it’s actually fun to wear”—(last summer, I thought it smelled like plum Kool-aid)—I now have to eat my words and confess that I actually crave this fragrance because I find it good--very good. The greenness of the plum is tangy and pleasing (especially here in the dead of winter) and layered over the sheer sandalwood base, the composition seems elegant in its simplicity.


Amouage Epic Woman. You’re probably tired of me yammering on and on about Amouage, so I’ll keep this short. It seems to me that the most engaging fragrances usually involve contrasting elements, and you have such contrasts here in this dusk-falls-on-the-Silk-Road rose scent. The voluptuous sweetness of rose is tempered by minty cool greenery and acrid spices; the close, saturated quality of rose is tempered by the drifty, atmospheric smokiness of frankincense. There's much more to love about this scent, too, but in a word: Gorgeous!


So there you have it!  My Best of 2009. And now I’m off to the other perfume blogs to find out what everyone put on their lists.  I hope you'll join me by visiting the participating blogs below.

(My sincere thanks to the very erudite and kind Helg at Perfume Shrine for organizing the event, and for inviting me to particpate.  Thanks, Helg—it was fun!)

1000 Fragrances


All I Am - A Redhead


A Rose Beyond the Thames


BitterGrace Notes


I Smell Therefore I Am


Mossy Loomings


Notes From the Ledge


Notes on Shoes, Cake & Perfume




Perfume in Progress


Perfume Shrine


Roxana’s Illuminated Journal


Savvy Thinker


Scent Hive


Smelly Blog


The Non-Blonde

Under the Cupola

Posted by Suzanne Keller, 12/29/2009.

All I Am - A Redhead

A Perfume Blog (Blacknall Allen)

Another Perfume Blog (Natalie)

Ars Aromatica

Australian Perfume Junkies

Beauty on the Outside

Bloody Frida

Bois de Jasmin

Bonkers About Perfume

Ca Fleure Bon

ChickenFreak's Obsessions


Eyeliner on a Cat

Fragrance Bouquet

From Top to Bottom - Perfume Patter

Giovanni Sammarco (artisanal perfumer) blog

Grain de Musc

I Smell Therefore I Am


Katie Puckrik Smells

L'eter - Blog of Olfactive Experience

Memory of Scent

Muse in Wooden Shoes 

Nathan Branch

Natural Perfumery by Salaam

Notes on Shoes, Cake & Perfume

Notes From Josephine

Notes From the Ledge

Now Smell This

Oh, True Apothecary! 


Olfactoria's Travels 

Parfumistans blogg


Perfume Posse

Perfume Shrine

Perfume-Smellin' Things

Purple Paper Planes

Redolent of Spices

Riktig Parfym: Ramblings of a Fragrant Fanatic

Scented Salamander

Scents of Place

Scents of Self

Smelly Blog

Sorcery of Scent 

Sweet Diva

The Alembicated Genie 

The Cow Jumped Over the Moon

The Fragrant Man

The French Exit

The Non-Blonde 

The Perfumed Maze

The Perfume Magpie

The Scented Hound

The Sounds of Scent

The Vintage Perfume Vault

This Blog Really Stinks 

Undina's Looking Glass 

WAFT by Carol 

Yesterday's Perfume

Web Hosting Companies