A More Affordable Olfactionary
Amouage Interlude ManAmouage Opus III
Amouage Opus V
Amouage Opus VIAmouage Tribute
Annick Goutal Encens FlamboyantAnnick Goutal Heure Exquise
Annick Goutal Petite Cherie Annick Goutal Sables April Aromatics Calling All AngelsApril Aromatics Jasmina
April Aromatics Nectar of Love
At the Moment (Chanel 22 & Marshall Crenshaw)At the Moment (Contemplating Change & Habit Rouge)
At the Moment (Marron Chic & Paris)
At the Moment (Saki & Lubin Idole edt)
At the Moment (Secret de Suzanne /D'Orsay L'Intrigante)At the Moment (Spring Pretties/Un Air de Samsara)
At the Moment (Summery Things...Love Coconut)
At the Moment (Vera Wang & Fireman's Fair novel)Ava Luxe Café Noir
Bond No. 9 Andy Warhol Silver Factory
Capote, Truman & Evening in Paris
Carner Barcelona D600Caron Aimez-Moi
Chantilly Dusting PowderClive Christian C for Women
Comme des Garcons DaphneComme des Garcons LUXE Champaca
Comme des Garcons Series 7 Sweet Nomad Tea
Costes by CostesCreed Virgin Island Water
DSH Perfumes Quinacridone Violet
DeneuveDevilscent Project
Estee Lauder Private Collection
Estee Lauder Private Collection Jasmine White Moss
Etat Libre d'Orange Rien, Rossy de Palma & Noel au Balcon
Frederic Malle Angeliques Sous La Pluie
Frederic Malle Bigarade Concentrée
Frederic Malle Geranium Pour Monsieur
Frederic Malle Le Parfum de Therese
Frederic Malle Portrait of a Lady
Frederic Malle Une Fleur de Cassie
Ghosts of Perfumes Past, Present & Future
Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Lys SoleiaGuerlain Aroma Allegoria Exaltant
Guerlain Samsara ParfumGuy Laroche J'ai Ose (vintage)
Histoires de Parfums Blanc Violette
Histoires de Parfums Vert Pivoine
How I Store DecantsIl Profumo Cannabis
In Memory (w/mention of Lanvin Arpege)
Jacomo #09 (Link to my review in Sniffapalooza Magazine)
Kenzo Jungle l’ElephantKenzo Summer
L'Artisan Parfumeur Nuit de Tubereuse
L'Artisan Parfumeur Orchidee Blanche
L’Artisan Parfumeur Passage d’Enfer
L'Artisan Parfumeur Seville a l'Aube
L’Artisan Parfumeur Tea for Two
La Via del Profumo Balsamo Della Mecca
La Via del Profumo Hindu KushLa Via del Profumo Oud Caravan Project
Maison Francis Kurkdjian Absolue Pour le Soir
Maison Martin Margiela (untitled) eau de parfum
Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Eau des Iles
Montale Black Aoud
More Roses (rose cookie recipe)
My Heart Has Skipped a Beat (summer smells)
Neila Vermeire Creations Bombay BlingNina Ricci L'Air du Temps
Nez a Nez Ambre a Sade
Northern Exposure "A Dash of Chanel No. 5"
Odin 04 Petrana (Link to my review in Sniffapalooza Magazine)
Olivier Durbano Black Tourmaline
Omar Sharif Pour FemmeOriscent Pure Oud Oils
Oscar de la Renta Oscar for Men
O Tannenbaum Joint Blog Project
Parfum d'Empire AzemourParfum d'Empire Cuir Ottoman
Parfumerie Generale Bois de Copaiba
Parfumerie Generale IndochineParfumerie Generale Un Crime Exotique
Parfums de Nicolai Sacrebleu
Parfums Karl Lagerfeld Sun Moon Stars
Paris, je t'aimePascal Morabito Or Black
Perfume Quotes - The English Patient
Puredistance OparduRamon Monegal Cherry Musk
Regina Harris Frankincense-Myrrh-Rose Maroc Perfume Oil
Robert Piguet FracasSarah Horowitz Parfums' Joy Comes From Within & Beauty Comes From Within
Scentuous Reading: One Hundred Years of Solitude
Serge Lutens Borneo 1834Serge Lutens Boxeuses
Serge Lutens Five O’Clock Au Gingembre
Serge Lutens Muscs Koublai Khan
Serge Lutens Tubereuse Criminelle
Serge Lutens Un LysSonoma Scent Studio Incense Pure
Sonoma Scent Studio Jour Ensoleille
Sonoma Scent Studio Voile de VioletteSonoma Scent Studio Winter Woods (brief mention)
SoOud Ouris Parfum Nectar
Stone Harbor, NJ Vacaton pix (non-perfume related)Strange Invisible Perfumes Lyric Rain
Tauer Perfumes: Incense Extrême, Incense Rosé, Lonestar Memories, & Reverie au Jardin
The Amazing Adventures of Kavalier & Clay
The Diary of a Nose, Book Review
Thoughts of a Perfume Collector
TightlyTokyo Milk Ex Libris
Unlocking an Unknown: Webber Parfum 6T
Velvet & Sweet Pea's Purrfumery Bed of Roses
Vero Profumo Kiki, Onda, and Rubj
Vero Profumo Mito Viktoria Minya HedonistViktor & Rolfe Flowerbomb
What I’m Lovin’ Now
Xerjoff Mamluk
YOSH Perfumes Ginger Ciao
Yves Saint Laurent Nu
THE NEW YEAR, SMILLA, A CLEANSED PALATE FOR WINTER
& ANGELIQUES SOUS LA PLUIE
I rose, unexpectedly, around 5 a.m. on the morning of New Year’s Eve, went to the kitchen and threw out the last several pieces of lasagna from the pan I baked the night before, when one of my husband’s friends from work came to dinner. It was the last of the holiday food; I’d sent half of it home with our guest and intended to cobble a couple of easy meals around the remainder, but then awoke with an intense desire to be rid of it entirely. It’s the same feeling I wake up with every New Year’s Eve: an impatient need to purge myself of the indulgences of Christmas and return to the semi-monastic lifestyle that suits me best. If that description sounds odd coming from someone whose perfume choices seem to reflect a love of all things decadent, well, as I’ve said before, my real-life self is quite the opposite of my perfumed self. For the most part, I crave a steady diet of simple foods, long walks, and quiet, focused work. Though I enjoy cooking, and titillating forays into the world of rich foods, my sensitive digestive system allows for only the briefest of holiday flings. My tolerance for the other trappings of Christmas is limited, too. I keep my Christmas decorations up for only a week. It’s not that I am immune to their glittering beauty; it’s that they seem to occupy a lot of precious space, so that after a while they lose their shine and I begin to regard them as distracting clutter.
After throwing out the lasagna, making coffee, and watching the morning materialize out of the darkness, I plucked a novel from my bookshelf that I hadn’t read in a long time. Smilla’s Sense of Snow by Peter Hoeg. It’s a book I admire, not for its thick and thrilling plot (nor for its ending, which contains more in the way of confusion than resolve), but for its heroine, Smilla, a fiercely intelligent and gutsy woman who has a sixth-sense understanding of the world she was born into—a world of ice and snow. Smilla is the product of an uneasy Greenland-Denmark union (one of many themes explored in the book): her mother was an Inuit woman who died on a hunting expedition when Smilla was still a child; her father is a wealthy Danish physician who went to Greenland on a science experiment, fell in love with Smilla’s mother and sired two children by her without ever really committing himself to them for very long—then forced Smilla to come live with him and be educated in Denmark after her mother’s death. As a result of her Inuit upbringing and her Danish education, 37-year-old Smilla speaks of snow in both intuitive and mathematical terms, with a reverence that is powerful even to a reader like myself, whose bent is opposite that of the scientific.
Snow is about the only thing Smilla has reverence for—she is a loner and a tough little nut in most regards. But it’s precisely because of her deep respect and understanding of the glacial world she comes from—as well as of her equally glacial self—that draws me to this book at the start of the New Year. After the Christmas holiday, what follows is three months of winter here, on top of the winter we’ve already had. In central Pennsylvania, winter arrives well before its appointed date on the calendar; this year, in mid November. And while I enjoy the start of it—the dramatic change of season, the desert-like quiet of it, the beauty of the first snowfall—eventually the gray skies and the brutal temperatures get to me. I want winter to be over and done with in the same way that I want Christmas to be over and done with. However, this year, at the start of the New Year, I’ve decided to take a different tact. I’m going to hunker down deep into winter and try looking at it through the eyes of someone who loves it like a lover.
I feel relatively optimistic about succeeding in this resolution, considering that I share some of Smilla’s sensibilities (“I feel the same way about my spatial freedom as I’ve noticed men feel about their testicles. I cradle it like a baby, and worship it like a goddess,” Smilla notes in one of my favorite passages).
And winter is a rather monastic kind of season. It would seem to suit me in so many ways...yet, in the past it has proved to be too monastic. Too drab and cloistered, too encumbering in terms of movement. I guess what I need to do is learn to move with it. Perhaps it’s time to dig out the cross-country skis I abandoned eons ago, time to dust off the aluminum snow shoes my husband bought me one year.*
My fragrance for the New Year was Angéliques Sous La Pluie from Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle. With notes of angelica, juniper berries, coriander, musk and cedar, it is a perfumed gin-and-tonic: a distillation of ozone-and-evergreen crispness, but with a sillage as soft as freshly fallen snow. Created by perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena in 2000, the scent is meant to evoke the smell of angelica flowers after a rain shower, and it very much possesses that kind of pure and washed-clean sensibility. Angéliques Sous La Pluie is the fragrance of a fresh start—of the clean slate, so to speak. It has an interesting way of cleansing the olfactory palate, and at the same time, offering up the next course: a whiff of primeval forest that has, perhaps, been there on life’s fine smörgåsbord all along, only veiled by the mists of our appetite for other things.
Angéliques Sous La Pluie can be purchased from the Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle website or from Barneys.com, where it is priced at $110 for a 50 ml bottle.
*I must note that I began this post a couple days ago, and, ironically, as I complete it today, there is not a snowflake in sight and the sky is as blue as a bird’s egg.
Photo: Winter Scene: Nuzzling Muzzles, from Simply Marvelous: The Wonderful World of Horses at http://simplymarvelous.wordpress.com/
Posted by Suzanne Keller, 1/3/2009.

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